The waves from the Gulf of St. Lawrence pound relentlessly on the shores of the coastal lowlands that form a narrow band at the base of the Long Range Mountains. In some areas, this band is only a few meters wide, while elsewhere it stretches across several kilometres of impenetrable bog and forest. The mountains themselves are old and worn, the northern tip of the Appalachian chain, resembling more of a vast plateau than a mountain range. Narrow inland fjords scar the face of this plateau, reaching many miles inland, and dropping hundreds of feet into the clear water that fills them. This rugged and windswept land is known today as Gros Morne National Park, a place where the ocean floor rests on dry land and the Long Range Mountains meet the sea.
The next stop in our tour of Gros Morne National Park is at a beautiful campground known as Green Point. This set of pictures were taken on the beach behind my campsite. Most of the campsites are carved into the stunted tuckamore forest, an impenetrable mass of gnarled, twisted conifers resulting from their exposure to the wind and salt spray. The beach is separated from the campsite by less than one hundred feet, yet the tuckamore forest blocks out any wind. The next picture was taken the same day at sunset. I just wanted to show some of the rugged beauty one finds in the "Land God Gave to Cain." This picture is taken along the old winter mail road looking south from the campground towards Baker's Brook. This was one of the nicest sunsets I've ever seen, and who could ask for a better backdrop. The old mail road is a great little hike for an evening adventure, as the terrain is gentle yet the view is amazing. On a clear day one can see not only the ocean stretching to the horizon, but the Long Range Mountains beyond the coastal marshes and lowlands. The last of the pictures I have included from Green Point is simply a sunset over the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Once again, this picture is a simple example of some of the beautiful scenery to be found in Newfoundland and Labrador. One could easily sit at the edge of this beach for an hour watching the surf and the seabirds, as it is utterly mesmerising.
One of the most popular attractions in the park is the boat tour of Western Brook Pond. The first picture was taken just as the boat enters the fjord. The only way to take the tour is to hike for a half an hour to the western edge of the pond, which spreads over the coastal lowlands at the foot of the Long Range Mountains. From there one boards one of two fine tour boats and before long the boats enter the fjord itself. A taped narrative point out peculiar features along the way. One such feature is the lovely little waterfall in the second picture, which provides a refreshing shower when the bow and stern of the tour boat are edged near. The captains of each boat seem to enjoy this part of the trip a little too much. I personally found the sight of the sheer rock face dropping straight down into the clear black depths a little more impressive. In fact, the waters of Western Brook Pond are among the clearest anywhere, since the headwaters are located on the plateau above, where little vegetation grows. As well, it is one of the deepest bodies of water in the province at over 800 feet deep. One other interesting feature of the tour is the small dock at the far end of the lake (the third picture), where hikers may disembark to begin the Long Range Traverse. This hike is for experienced backpackers only, but is possibly the ultimate hike in the province. Beginning at the end of the pond, the trail rises quickly to the top of the Long Range Mountain plateau. From there it heads south towards the namesake of the park, Gros Morne Mountain. Climbing up the back of the mountain, one is rewarded with a spectacular view of the ocean, lowlands and mountains. The trail ends after the descent down the west face of Gros Morne Mountain. The most important thing to remember about this hike is to park one car at the parking lot for the boat tour, and another at the parking lot for the Gros Morne Mountain hike.
Also worthy of note is the area around Rocky Harbour. This scenic town is home to the park administration, and has all the services and amenities needed by the weary traveller. It also has some points of interest, namely Lobster Cove Head. The lighthouse houses exhibits regarding the daily life of the lighthouse keeper, as well as local residents. There is also an interpretative walk along the inter-tidal zone at the base of the headland where one can see the vast number and variety of animals and plants which live there. The many trails and boardwalks allow exploration of the surrounding tuckamore forest and coastline. Be sure to keep a look out for whales as well, as this is generally regarded as the best place to spot them. Other places of note in the area are the state-of-the-art swimming facility, the visitor centre, and the town itself. A taste of traditional Newfie fare is always available in one of the local restaurants, and is definitely worth a try too! This is also the place to pick up tickets for the boat tour at Western Brook Pond, as well as the boat tour of Bonne Bay. For more information, check out the Gros Morne National Park homepage.
Of course, there's far more to see on the Great Northern Peninsula than just Gros Morne; there's the Arches Provincial Park, the sandy dunes at Castors River, the ferry to Labrador, and a plethora of tiny communities scattered along the coast. Not only that, but you may just see Maritime Archaic Indians or Vikings on your trip. To continue, just click here.
