Hamster Basics
Your New Hamster
Hamsters live approximately "1,000 days" sometimes they can live longer; sometimes they die more
quickly. Syrians (also called 'Teddy Bear', 'Fancy', 'Regular' or 'Normal' hamsters) usually live 2 -3 years
but can die at a year or go as long as five (very rare).
What kind of cage should I get?
If you have 2 hamsters they cannot be housed in the same cage! This is very important. Even if you are
planning to breed, each animal needs its own cage unless you want trouble. I have heard that some people
have been successful having a pair of siblings in the same cage, but if you ask me that is just asking for
trouble. Two hamsters in the same cage nearly always results in death of one or both of them. Hamsters
are very solitary animals and prefer to be alone. Your company is more than enough!
Here are 3 cage suggestions I have.
1. One cage for hamsters is a plastic cage that tubes can connect to. These are fun when you are
watching your hamster, and often come with a water bottle, sleeping area, and possibly a food container.
They may have starter packages that include wood shavings for cage floor covering, food, and other
tid-bits. I have found that these cages are difficult to use for a couple of reasons. One is that it is difficult
to put your hand in the cage to catch your hamster to play with it. Another thing is that they can be
difficult to clean. Yet another reason is they really aren't big enough to house an adult hamster. You will
have to buy other cages to attach to the original cage to provide enough room for your hamster. Some
have thought that these homes do not provide enough air circulation. If your hamster chews a lot he may
chew through the cage, and then you would have to buy another cage! Some adult hamsters may have
difficulty getting through the tubes.
2. A wire cage is another popular cage. These may be slightly harder to find than a 'tube home.' You
should be able to find one at a pet store. Try to get one with no coating on the wires. If you want to get a
coated cage don't get one with a plastic or painted on coating. Try to find one that has the coating baked
on. Your hamster will probably chew on the bars and a coating may be harmful to him. Wire homes allow
air to circulate freely, allow you to feed your hamster tid-bits through the bars and often snap apart to aid in
cleaning. Wire homes also have their disadvantages. Often they come with a wire floor, which is bad for
hamsters because of their tiny feet. Their feet may fall through the bars and may cause an injury. This
problem can be fixed in most cases. Simply remove the wire floor. Other problems include litter being
kicked out of the cage. This isn't too hard to deal with, simply sweep it or vacuum it up.
3. Aquariums make excellent cages for hamsters. Some good things about aquariums are they protect the
hamster from drafts and don't allow litter to be kicked out. A few problems with aquariums are that they
are breakable if they fall or get dropped, they may get hot or cold if placed too near a window or air vent,
and they could be awkward to clean. A 10-gallon aquarium will probably be enough room for an adult
hamster. Of course, the bigger the home the better. A 10-gallon aquarium can be found easily and they
even have tops for sale especially made to fit them.
One thing you will need to remember about aquariums is that you will need a climb-proof water bottle and probably a cage top.
What kind of cage floor covering should I get?
You'll need a covering of wood chips or shavings for the floor of the cage. Cedar is not acceptable for
small animals. It causes breathing problems and may irritate their skin. (I have my own stories of the problems of cedar, so I know this from personal experience). There are many acceptable floor coverings including Aspen. Aspen is a hard wood, so it doesn't have oils to irritate the skin. There is a down side, it might be a little pricey, but not as bad as CareFresh.
What I have heard to be the absolutely best floor covering is CareFresh. I have never used it, but from
what I've heard it's wonderful. The downside is it might be more expensive.
Personally, I use pine but I have been told on numerous occasions that it is bad for hamsters just like cedar but not as bad as cedar. I have never had a problem with it, but I do watch closely to see if a problem arises. If you don't want to risk it at all go for Aspen or CareFresh.
Saw dust, sand, kitty litter are all not good choices for cage floor covering. Sawdust and sand may get into
their eyes and noses also will get packed down with water or urine. Kitty litter may be harmful if eaten,
which even if they don't swallow they will put some in their mouths to re-arrange.
There may be other types of floor covering I did not mention here. They are probably fine. The main
thing to remember is Cedar is a no-no, and your hamster will eat some of the shavings so don't put
anything you don't want it to eat in!
What else do I need?
The other supplies you will need are a water bottle if your cage didn't come with one (do not get a dish
of water), a food dish (this is not absolutely necessary at first. It is nice to have though) an exercise
wheel (another thing you don't need from the start but will eventually) and bedding material.
For bedding material you should not get any of the attractive 'fluffy' bedding at a pet store. This has
been found to be dangerous to hamsters. They will eat some of it accidentally and this may clog their
digestive tract or get tangled around their feet/head/neck. The same problem comes with fabric. Anything that looks like cotton, wool, or fiberfill
should be avoided. You should instead use unscented ,undyed toilet paper.
Water bottles for an aquarium need to be climb proof. If they aren't you will have an escapee. Farnam
Pet Products makes a very nice chew proof, climb proof water bottle that I use with all my aquariums.
Lixit is another good brand that makes this kind of bottle as well. These special bottles may be a little more expensive and a little harder to find, but
definitely worth it.
If you are getting a wheel you may want to make sure in the store that it doesn't squeak badly. Check to
make sure it is straight, and spin it slowly and quickly to see if it squeaks. If you try all this and you still
end up getting a squeaky wheel go on to "HELP!" and you will find instructions on how to fix the
squeak. Or better yet, buy a Wodent Wheel! (this is what I use and it is the best thing I have ever seen for a hamster!
If you would like to see a sample cage set up go to this photo. (note: The cages I use have been found to not be as good for someone who just wants a pet because it is more difficult to add on some of the fun extras. My personal recommendation is to get an aquairum with one of the fitted tops and the water bottle I have mentioned and a wodent wheel. You can see the food dish in the photo above).
What does my hamster eat?
Most stores that have a pet supplies section will have at least a small section for small mammals. There
you should find some type of hamster/gerbil food mix. This is what you should use for your hamster's
main diet. You can supplement their diet with fruits and vegetables. Some that I have given are: broccoli,
cauliflower, carrots, celery, lettuce, apples, avocado, pear, potatoes, and tomatoes. If you give vegetables
make sure that they are clean, something you would be willing to eat (if you like vegetables. If you don't,
ask someone who does!), you know what it is, and that all green parts of vegetables that aren't supposed to
be green are taken off. I would not recommend giving any wild plants to your hamster. You don't know
what's been on it and you may not know if it is poisonous or not. If you can be absolutely positive that it is
clean and that it is not poisonous to hamsters then they might enjoy a wild treat.
Something that your hamster may like are mashes made from bread, milk (or beef stock), cheese, egg,
seeds from hamster mix, and nuts. I have heard that some hamsters like baby food for very young babies
(so there are no spices or anything), and baby cereal.
I must stress that any sweets of any kind (candy, chocolate, and taffy to name a few) are definitely a
bad idea to give to your hamster!
There is a list of good and bad foods from "The Complete Hamster Site" I cannot list it here becuase it
is too long. But if you go to this page Complete Hamster Site Feeding you can read the list and read more
about hamster care!
I've got my hamster, now what?
Leave the hamster alone for a day or two so it can get used to its new surroundings. After that time
you can start to introduce yourself to the hamster. Go slowly. Hamsters will bite if they are frightened or
if they smell food on your hands. Talk as you feed it and pet it gently. It will get used to your voice and
touch. Eventually try picking your hamster up.
Remember to never handle your hamster while or directly after you have eaten or have touched their
food. They will smell the food and want a taste, not realizing that you aren't food.
Hamsters sleep during the day, and play at night. Try not to wake up your hamster or it might bite.
Also it may get sick if you are waking it up all the time.
Is my hamster a boy or a girl?
If you need help figuring if your hamster is a boy or girl look at the pictures I have provided of a
male and a female (Warning, the photos are quite large as are all the photos on this page.) If these don't help try going to The Complete Hamster Site and find the section there that is to help determine gender.
Go back to the hamstery.
Go to the Hamster breeding page.
