GoLowDrew's Honda Civic

 It's not how low you go, it's how you go low!

This page was revised to discuss Modification Basics for 6th Generation Civic (1996-Present). - 1/08/2000

Wheels:

This is perhaps the single biggest modification to the appearance of your car. Depending on the size, type, and weight, it can also affect performance too. When selecting the right wheel, make sure you completely understand

OFFSET - The stock Civic wheel at 35mm offset. Keep in mind that if you buy custom wheel, 99% of the time you will choose one that is wider. The wider custom wheel must be at a GREATER offset than 35mm, or it will either stick out of your fender and/or rub suspension parts inside the wheel well. If you are choosing a wheel that is 2" wider, know that (assuming the same offset) the width of the wheel will increase 1" on the inside and 1" on the outside over stock size.

SIZE - 14" X 5" steel wheel is the standard size on all Civic (except 96 CX, DX & 99 Si). Following the plus concept of increasing wheel size, it is ok to think the larger size wheel will increase handling, while a wider wheel will also allow you to mount wider tires. BUT this is only up to a certain point based on the 'Law of Diminishing Return." Keep in mind the larger the wheel, greater it will weight. This will slow down your car and actually decrease performance. Yes, I do agree that 16" wheels do look nicer on a Civic.

HUB CENTRIC - Some aftermarket wheels are not, meaning the center hub is not line up the to the center of the wheel. Instead, these wheels rely on the lug nuts to center it. Because wheel makers can't make a single wheel design for one specific car, the hub centric mount is made big, so an adoptive ring is used to accommodate each specific car for a perfect fit. Wheels that are NOT hub centric may experience steering wheel "shakes" at highway speeds, because the wheels are not completely center on the hub.

MyChoice: DP Genisus 15X7 alloy at 35mm offset (Sold 4/99). Currently rolling on Konig GTR 15X6.5 alloy at 40mm offset. DP Genisus were slightly lighter than the stock 14" wheel. It made the car look full by filling up the wheel well. At 35mm and 7" wide, it was flushed against the fender. But I wanted a look that would "tuck" in a little, not to mention a bit lighter. So I got the Konig GTR. The steering is now noticeably lighter in feel, but not overly assist with stock wheels. The wheels look stock being tucked in, like it came with the car as standard equipment. I do have to say the DP does look a bit more aggressive compare to the Konig.

 

Tires:The right running shoes will make you run better, so will a good set of tires. There are so many sizes and type that there is never a "perfect" brand, only a satisfied choice. Unfortunately we don't have that type of opportunity to try all sort of tires for different occasions. Before you buy, know the right SIZE to maintain your overall ratio of your original tire, and how much you want to spend.

SIZE - It is very important to maintain the overall ratio of your original tire size. If you don't know what "overall ratio" mean, please review your High School Math. The general rule is to keep the overall ratio +/- 3% from stock. Any greater variations will cause errors in your Speedometer and Odometer. As an example, you could be going faster than your speedometer indicates. Or log in more miles on the odometer than actual. It will also change the shift point of your transmission and affect performance and response of your car. If you are deciding between the two sizes, it's always better to be slightly shorter than the original overall ratio. This will help in off-the-line acceleration. But a size too short will decrease your top speed. The "Law of Diminishing Return" also applies here.

MyChoice: Nankang EX-500 195/55/15 Uni-Directional V rated with "Aqua Channels. This overall size is 99% of the stock size, and was the lowest price tire of this size I could find. Most tire of this size are extremely expensive because only a few cars used them. Keep in mind that just because a tire cost more, does not always mean that it offers better performance. The original 185/65/14 tires "squeal" under normal highway on and off-ramps. These Nankangs have never made a sound during reasonable aggressive driving. But I may try a set of higher performance, stickier tires (which will cost more) next time around. The 55 profile, no longer consider "low" by today's standards, provide good balance between comfort and performance without excessive tire noise, and stiff bumpy ride associated with low profile tires. This can be a factor in overall comfort on long highway trips.

Popular Stock Sizes (Some sizes were shared by other Honda/Acura models in different year)

Model

Civic

Civic

Integra

Accord

Civic

Integra

Accord

Prelude

Prelude

Wheel Size

13

14

14

14

14

15

15

15

16

Tire Size

175/70/13

185/60/14

195/60/14

195/70/14

185/65/14

195/55/15

195/60/15

205/55/15

205/50/16

Profile Height

122.5

111.00

117.00

136.5

120.00

107.00

117.00

112.75

102.5

Height in mm.

575.2

577.60

589.60

628.6

595.60

595.00

615.00

606.50

611.4

Height in Inches

22.65

22.74

23.21

24.75

23.45

23.43

24.21

23.88

24.01

 Popular Aftermarket Wheel Sizes

Wheel Size

15

15

16

16

17

17

Tire Size

195/50/15

205/50/15

205/40/16

205/45/16

205/40/17

215/40/17

Profile Height in mm

97.50

102.50

82.00

92.00

82.00

86.00

Height in mm.

576.00

586.00

570.40

590.40

595.80

603.80

Height in Inches

22.68

23.07

22.46

23.24

23.46

23.77

 If you have questions or need a calculation comparison that is not on the chart, please e mail me (with both the stock size, and aftermarket size) and I will do my best to give you the information (including differences speedometer, odometer, and gear ratio differences) you need to make a wise decision.

 

Springs:

 It's important to determine how low you want to go, or if any drop at all. This will also affect your tire/wheel choice. Springs are basically low technology, and there is not much change for the past 100 years. Most modern cars like Honda/Acura have progressive (increase rate as it compress) springs already. So let's just focus on "how low you want to go," and it's effects.

HOW LOW TO GO - Keep in mind that if your car is a daily driver, you would want to be able to safe under most road conditions without damaging your car. This is more of a personal choice as most people lower their car between 1.5" to 2.5". The lower you go, the springs you choose will be stiffer. With poor road conditions, it's important to find one you'll be happy with. Springs will last the life of your car. Also plan ahead what other modification you would want. Cat-Backs and Sway Bars may require a few more inches to clear city streets and parking lots.

CAMBER - The double wishbone (upper and lower control arms) suspension on most Honda/Acura are unequal in length with the top one shorter then the bottom. This creates perfect negative camber (tilt inwards) as the suspension compresses during a turn. This puts greater tire contact on the outer wheels. However, as a car is lowered, the suspension thinks its turning all the time by tilting the wheels. Slight negative camber can be good as it puts more tire on the ground for grip during a turn because it now "thinks" it's making a more aggressive turn than actual.

EFFECTS - Negative camber create greater tire wear on the inside of the tire. The lower you do, the greater the negative camber will be. And there is nothing you can do to correct this (see above) on a double wishbone suspension, sort of a camber kit ($300). If you are riding on expensive tires, you may want to think about HOW LOW TO GO. Then there is the question, will the wheel/tire rub?

MyChoice: H & R Sport Springs (1.75" f ront and 1.5" rear) H & R Sport Springs offer a more aggressive lower stance, and improved the performance over the stock Civic by10X. The car behaves completely different with confidence going into any corner at any speed, with almost no body lean. The progressive rate coils provided a ride that is close to stock setting, but over sharp bumps, it reminds you that you are riding on sport springs. As far as clearance, never had problems, even with passengers. Just be aware when approaching the bump stops are parking lots. Some of them are really high and can cause damage if not careful.

Note: Be sure that the shop transfer the "rubber wrap" from your stock springs to the aftermarket lowering ones. This will reduce the possibility of "clinking" sound from the springs as it compresses. Also, many Gen 6 Civic (1996-Present) notice one side of the car lower than the other, specifically the rear left wheel. Shops will tell you nothing is wrong, but visually, it looks slightly lower than the rest (only a careful eye will be able to noticed). I know of about 10 Civic owners that have the same dilemma, that no one can explain why. Possible reasons: 1. That is the way Honda built it, cause U.S. drives on the left side, therefore most cars will make right turn more than the left at greater speed like highway on/off ramps. So the camber is tilt more aggressive as the rear left wheel would likely to break free and loose traction. 2. The aftermarket lowering spring is not pushed up against rubber seat because an imprint have not set, as owners replace their stock springs when the car is almost brand new. Therefore the new lowering springs may not sit in the exact place as it should.

 

Shocks:

Shocks goes with Springs so the thinking must go together too. You can save labor cost if you plan ahead. Some Springs like Sports or SofSports works well with stock shocks. While Race springs requires you to replace the shocks with high performance shocks.

 TO ADJUST OR NOT TO ADJUST - Adjustable shocks offers you the advantages of selecting a perfect setting to balance between performance and comfort. This is extremely helpful for Sunday Racers to tuned their car, and for cars that are drop low to keep from bottoming out. However, like a new toy, the novelty will eventually wear out, and the driver will just leave it at one setting. Think about it before you spend the money on adjustable shocks.

 COILOVERS/OTHER ADJUSTABLES - I have not personally know anyone with them, so I can't offer any real world experience. They are expensive and many people in the car show circuit used them to set the perfect stance for their ride.

MyChoice - Tokico HP non-adjustable "Blues". They are strong, more reasonable in cost, and recommended by a mechanic. Tokico also provide OEM shocks on cars such as Lexus LS400, Toyota Supra, and Lincoln Mark VIII, so one can expect it to be of quality. The ride is better compare to stock shocks in compress mode (after being lowered), so much of the "jiggy" is gone. It does offer a smoother and slight softer ride. But I would think the money could have been spend on some Koni adjustable stocks. These Tokico HP offer no surprises, that is both good and bad. 

Note: Some people have had problems with Tokico HP bottoming out on Gen 3 Integra (94-Current). The problem does not occur on Gen 5 Civic (92-95) or the Gen 2 Integra (90-93). Because the Civic and Integra share parts, the parts # for Gen 3 Integra is the exact # as the Gen 5 Civic. Being that the Integra is a heavier car than the Civic, the likely hood of problems bottoming out is very possible. The shocks for Gen 2 Integra is of a different part number from Gen 3 Integra and Gen 5 Civic, so the problem does not occur. The part # for Gen 6 Civic is also the same as the Gen 3 Integra/Gen 5 Civic, except the rear shocks have an extra "A" at the end of the part #. So one can assume the shocks are exactly the same, so the problems experienced can be a possibility on Gen 6 Civic because it's heavier also.

Exhaust Systems

The sound that your car make will offer attention getting looks and a solid commanding feel. The most restrictive point in the Civic exhaust system is the muffler. Like a runner, better breathing = better performance.

CAT-BACK SYSTEM - Many Cat-Back System (Catalytic Converter - Back) on the market from major brands such as DC Sport, Tanabe, and Greddy comes with a shinning stainless steel canister, smooth even mandrel bends, and produce a deep throaty sound. The piping used on most systems are 2.36 inches wide. This would be best for Turbocharged /Supercharged engines, but on normally aspirated engines, it would reduce backpressure. Backpressure is needed for low-end performance (3,000 rpm) where most people do their daily driving. The stock Civic 1.6L 16-valve engine is not a torque to begin with. This will reduce off-the-line performance, and transition response. Your car may craw like a snail when you least expected. Many people do experience significant gains of about 5hp to 8hp at the high end (5,000 rpm or above), with the combination of The Big Three (Intake, Headers, Cat-Back). Many big name Cat-Backs have been test and rated as 50 States Legal.

CUSTOM CAT-BACK SYSTEM - At half the price of a name brand system, you can have your local muffler shop custom make one for you. This will also give you the freedom to choose the pipe, muffler, and exhaust tip. A pipe size of 2.25 inches wide will give you a balance between high/low end performance. But most muffler shop do not have the machine tools to do a smooth mandrel bend. The cramp bends may negate the benefits gain the freer flow of the bigger pipe. Because there are so many combinations (pipe, muffler, tip) possible, you may want to be aware of how loud your exhaust note will be.

BOLT-ON MUFFLER / PERFORMANCE MUFFLER - This is the cheapest way to go. The stock pipes on a Gen 6 Civic is already at a very respectable 2 inch wide. This will preserve all the backpressure for low end performance while allowing slightly freer flow. There are no measurable "gains" from this set up, other than sound. But most owners do noticed better engine response. Depending on the muffler chosen, this is the quietest exhaust set up. A selected few owners do gain about 50 "mental horsepower" J with this set up, while most don't.

"NO-CAT" SYSTEM - This is ILLEGAL! And may get you more than a ticket. A few people claim this ultimate free flow set up with no catalytic converter will increase power (and wake up your neighbors). Many magazines have demonstrated that there are no real benefits with a Cat-Less System, other than getting the attention of law enforcement. With today's technology, there are so many ways to increase power while being 50 States legal.

MyChoice: The decision was to go with just the muffler. Magnaflow was the choice because its applications suit smaller engines better. This Muffler is of the exact design as the expensive stuff with straight through design, and non-resonated chamber. The muffler was welded on the last pipe, so all the original mounting and bolt on points are there if I wanted to go with something else later, like a Mugen Twin-Loop Muffler. I have noticed better engine response, which is what I wanted, instead of high end power increase. It now produces a deep throaty sound like a vintage British roadster, and rather quiet on cruising speeds. The drone note of the exhaust can be a comfort factor for sensitive ears on long trips, like more than an hour. You may want to consider a resonated exhaust tip to soften the sound a bit. That's the price you pay with high-performance mufflers. But on WOT (wide-open throttle), it's all Rice!!!

 

 Tinted Windows:

 Tinted Windows seems easy enough, considering the supplies only cost about $35.00 vs. $200 for a shop to do it. Applying the tint film seems rather straight forward, but the back window is where problems can happen. The "double concave curve" of the rear glass means a few things: 1. The tint may need to be split into two or more pieces (for an inexperience installer). 2. Using a heat gun to then form fit the tint to the rear glass. Keep in mind, if you mess up, there will be ugly glue marks on your window and tint film. So this is definitely a job for the pros. Don't mess it up the look of your car with an unprofessional tint job.

THE LAW - Tinting laws in California prohibits the front side windows from being tinted. The law was put into effect in the 1950s as a billboard law. This prevents billboard displays from obstructing the driver's view while driving. The law was later enforced as a way to protect law enforcement officers while approaching a stop car. However, effective January 1, 1999, the law once again allow front side windows to be tinted. But, the amount of light transmit rate is at about 80% (which is basically stock window tint found in many luxury cars).

MyChoice: The tint I chosen for my windows is at 50% rate. This way I would be able to tint all the side windows, without the dark appearance with most tint job. The shop used 3M tint, but most professional shops will use reputable brands, and back by warranty. This tint is Neutral tone with no color dyes, so it looks clear, and the color won't fade or change color (to an old purple color). The 3M 50% tint offers almost the same amount of UV and heat reflection as the superdark Limo tints, without attracting heat common with many dark tints. It also retain all the clear visibility needed in night driving like stock window tints. This tint does reduce light glares in a sunny day, but does not provide any shading under the California sun (Perhaps 40% rate would be a next best). Under certain light, the 3M tint looks slightly silverish, at times, it looks slightly dark, and then there are times when it looks like it was not tinted at all.

 

Alarm:

 Honda/Acura cars have been the top 10 stolen cars in the U.S. for the past 10 years. This is due to their popularity, rather than faulty design. The property damage to Honda/Acura cars are not limited to cars that are fixed up used for joy riding, it's across the board with stolen parts being sold in the black market. Therefore an Alarm is almost a necessity.

ANY ALARM - The saying goes, "If they want it bad enough, nothing is going to stop them from taking it." In the view of the professional car thief, there is really not much you can do. You can take the normal precautions. It's the semi-pro and amateurs, we can take an active approach. There are many type of Alarm with different features, but besure to get at least the basics: 1. It needs to make sound. 2. Be able to reset itself by turning the sound on and off (otherwise your car might get tolled or have many angry neighbors). 3. Blinking RED light, deterrents is the best defense. 4. Ignition Disabler to prevent the car from starting 5. Motion Detector for glass window break-ins. 6. Why not add THE CLUB too for only $25.00.

MyChoice: Viper 800+ with backup battery pack with #1 through #6 features mentioned above, except #5. That's because I did not have much money when I had the alarm installed. But recommend it. Since the Civic LX comes with power door locks, they wired it to the remote transmitter for key-less operation.

 

Lights:

Lights provide not only lighting, but also attention getting looks in. No one can see a modified car in dark, but one will know often by the lights. Attention also helps in safety as other drivers will be easier to spot your car on the road in the dark. But lighting modifications must be also practicle. Again, with safety, you need to be able to see, and other must be able to see you.

BLUE, ION & OTHER RAINBOW TINT LIGHTS - To make it simple, DO NOT get any of these lights. They are illegal, and the tint/coating used to produce these affects really do decrease the amount of light output the bulb produce. Often these bulbs are also made from poor materials that you may not get much useful life out of them. Therefore only go with a brand you trust.

ASTRONOMY 101: Blue vs. White - The wavelength of blue light is shorter and narrower, where as wavelength of "yellow" light is longer and wider. Blue light reflecting off an object will produce a shaper image because the wave length are narrower (better details) as compare to yellow light which offers less details because of wider wavelength. Imagine wave length as resolutions on your computer or TV screen. The smaller, the sharper the picture. That's why neon signs often use the color blue. Now, the wider the wavelength the farther the light will travel. Yellow light will travel farther than blue. So headlights are yellow, so the driver can see farther. And because it's wider in wavelength, it offers less detail on the light it reflects of an object. That's why objects looses it's color sometimes if it's directly too close in front of a headlight. By looking into space, we can see yellow stars, but blue stars are not visible to the naked eyes. Blue star burns brighter to a point that is actually decreasing it's ability for the light to go far, where as a yellow star may not burn that bright, but we can see them millions of light years away.

H.I.D. HIGH INTENSITY DISCHARGE - Many bulbs try to imatate the look of HID lights with tints that produce a bluish color. First HID is similar to the white lights used on the hwy or in a stadium. It's NOT a halogen systems like most cars. It require sopiscated electronics to just turn on (without long warm ups). True HID requires only 35w to produce 150w. The light color it produce is very "white" at the color temp. of 4300K compare to stock bulbs at 3800K.

MyChoice: PIAA SuperPlasma - PIAA is a brand that I trust in quality, that is important if you were to spend $$ on lights. SuperWhite (3800K) first came out in 1998 and many debate whether or not 55w = 85w. But no one debated about the color it produces or the quality of the bulbs. So far, I have only heard one case of PIAA bulbs gone bad after 6 months of use, compare to a few weeks for the "fake" ones. SuperPlasma (55w=100w) was introduce in 1999 and offers a combination of Plasma (4300K) in low beam and SuperWhite in high beam. SuperPlasma offers a true HID in color, and is the closest to HID a halogen bulbs will get (not comparing to PIAA Plasma Blue - only in Japan). It achieve this via special tint on the bulb that absorb the "yellow" color to produce a true white light.

As far as performance, it does take a while to get used to the way it lights up the road. The illumination on objects is now truer in color, instead of "yellowish," therefore making objects more visible. Be careful in fog/snow/rain, the white light will reflect off of fog/snow/rain instead of penetrating through. Therefore making visibility very poor. That's the reason why fog lights are amber in color. The light is white like HID but no where near HID's intensity of 150w. And it is NOT brighter than stock as PIAA claim. Where it is perhaps brighter than stock would be in the center about 30ft in front. That is not to say that it's not bright enough. It's "ok" for regular use. Just don't expect 55w=100w. Even without a light meter, your eyes can tell you it's NOT 55w=100w. In advertising, PIAA simply could have compare it to non-halogen bulbs to qualify this statement to be true. Maybe the extra pressurized Xenon gas do actually makes the bulb brighter, but the filters used to filter out the yellow color surely does weaken the light. Maybe in intensity, but not in wavelength. If define by above statements, Wavelength is a function of color temperature. It does seem to project a bit further as the street signs light up a bit more compare to stock. Longer wavelength light travels farther. The same way you see street lights, but not the red or green light in an intersection from an airplane. But is it worth it? YES, the HID look is that good!!!!

 

Modifications Tried/Tested:

 These Modifications were looked into/tired, but a decision was made to not go ahead with it.

The first was CLEAR CORNERS. The U.S. model requires an orange reflector insert, and turn signals. I tend to agree that the Europe and Japan versions with clear corners and amber bulb look much nicer. But the problem is the law. California Law states that turn signals need to project a light color that ranges form white to amber, (which mean clear corners are ok). Examples in stock form are Toyota Avalon, VW Golf, and Chevy Astro. However, the law also states that reflectors need to be visible from ALL angles of the car. So removing the orange inserts on a Civic would mean no reflectors, therefore making it illegal. Also, doing it the "home-made" version by surgically opening the headlight assembly would be too risky. If you go with aftermaket clear corners for 96+ Civic, expect to pay $300. And yes, some do have a white reflector instead of orange in the clear corners.

The second was DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS (DRL). DRL is standard on all cars in Canada, and some in the U.S. I just thought they look cool, and any improvements in visibility would also increase safety. Honda does not have a DRL unit for the U.S. model. I have called several Canadian Honda dealers, and they all said that it would not fit on an U.S. model. I am not really sure why. They recommend a GM unit, but the GM parts guy is not too confident about the success of this modification. There are many venders on the Internet that sell DRL ($30-$80). But unfortunately the wiring instructions are not "Honda Specific," and I would not want some mechanic to experiment with the installation on my car. But I'm still interested if a Honda part becomes available.

The Third was FOG LIGHTS. I was very specific about the exact location as to where the fog lights go. It would require part of the air intake below the front bumper to be cut out. And the light still would not sit deep in the air intake opening, as I wanted. The wiring was also a challenge for me because I never done it before. This may be a job for the pros. And I have not found the exact size light that would fit best.

.

 

Wish List (Future Modifications)

Jackson Racing Supercharger

Cat-Back Exhaust System

Koni Adjustable Shocks

IceMan Intake

 

The Metal Thing

One of the biggest things to consider in modifying your car would the thing between your ears. The increased confidence between the driver and car needs to be control in a safe manner. Pay attention of your surroundings and know the limits. Every owner needs to be smart about this. The other factor is call The Mental Thing, and it will attack and eat you up without notice. Imagine the feeling of modifying something and it didn't go right, or the way you want to. How does that make you feel?

When things don't go right, and it will, you must remember to remain calm and step away from your car to evaluate the situation. After spending the time, money, and effort, you may feel a sense of helplessness, anger, and regret. Don't ever take it out on your car (or other people) because you will make it worst. Your car is a machine, what was done can be un-do. With that in mind, I offer these pointers before you start your Project Car to avoid The Mental Thing:

  1. Know what You Want: Always have a basic idea or game plan from the start as to what look you want, and performance you want to achieve. Just because every other car on the street have Part A, doesn't mean you will need it too. Is your plan Totally Slammed or Semi-Stock? Is it going to be a Show Car or All Motor? Maybe somewhere in between. Work within reasons as to what is possible, and livable. Remember you are keeping this car for a long time, right?
  1. Do your Homework: Research as much as you can about the modification. Find out how it works, how it fits, and does it go well your game plan. Talk to other car owners, read magazines, gather information from the internet, or simply e mail someone (like me). I found nearly everyone responded to my question sincerely. Many of them will be able to give you REAL feedback, rather than hype. And get as many opinions as possible because everyone's game plan is different, and not everyone is truly "knowledgeable" in that particular modification. You need to be the judge.
  2.  

  3. Step Away: With all that information, make your decisions away from the performance shops, or car shows. The parts, tire, or sticker will still be there tomorrow. Never go on impulse, you might regret it later. Many parts are inter-related, and you need to know the effects on the big picture. Do more research, you may find something you like even more, and you can actually afford it.
  4. Never trust a Salesperson completely: When getting advice from performance, or tire shops, think about what they say. They are in business to make money, and may not have your best interest in mind. To them, everything will fit in your car, and work, because they will make it work. Be your own boss, make your own decisions, and stick with your game plan.
  5. Cost: Modifications cost money, and every little part you buy will add up. Some say "never add up how much you spent on your Project Car." But you should. You need to know, and keep it within reason. Sacrificing the needs of your daily life is not healthy, physically and mentality. If your plans are to spend $1,500 on engine improvements on a Civic DX to get 25 additional hp. You might as well gotten the more powerful Civic EX in the first place (yes, I know EX do cost more than $1,500, but hope you understand my point).

 

Show Me the $$$$$

Leather Wrap Steering Cover

$15

Jan 1998

H & R Sport Springs

$250 (installed)

April 1998

Wheel Alignment

$50

April 1998

Nankang 195/55/15 Tires

$400 (includes mount, balance)

June 1998

Konig GT-R 15 x 6.5

$400

April 1999

MagnaFlow Muffler

$125 (installed)

June 1999

Tokico HP shocks

$400 (installed)

Dec 1999

PIAA SuperPlasma Bulbs

$75

Jan 2000

Total

$1,715

 

Note: Wheel Alignment was necessary after the car was lowered, therefore consider as part of modification instead of maintenance.

 

It's all about the Benjamins

The after-market high performance auto industry is big business. And it's also a profitable one too with continuous stream of young enthusiast, and the traditional American love for the automobiles. That's why more and more shops are opening up for business. Many shops do carry quality products, and offer professional service. Mixed in are sub-standard parts that have never been tested, and maybe installed by someone who doesn't really understand cars. Manufactures such as Honda and its suppliers spend lots of money and many hours designing and testing each parts. So don't just rip it out of your car, there are reasons for way it look and perform. Some aftermaket performance parts do affect reliability, usefulness, and safety of your vehicle. You might not notice it in the beginning, but it may sneak up 50,000 miles later. Think about it before you begin your Project Car!

 

The Krew

The popularity of the Import Car Scene have attracted many people of all ages and background. Like all aspects of society, there will be the good and bad. Many Car Clubs and Racing Teams offer an avenue to express this interest. Some are just a group of guys getting together, while others are more formalized. The sprit of competition is always the positive outcome. But this form of individual organized group under a common interest will sometimes attract the ill-aspects of society in the form of "gangs." Gangs have rally among the import car scene and also bring along the lifestyle associated with "neighborhood gangs. Although "Car Crews" can be a something of interest and unity, be selective when deciding which one to join. Just because members drive $30,000 Hondas, does not mean the venue it's not "gang-like."

 

 

Helpful Sites:

To research if a particular modification is Legal in California check out the California Law Site S

 

To read the story behind Honda, the Man and the Machine check out History of Honda

 

To see a weight chart on Stock Wheels and After-Market Wheels check out Wheel Weight Site

 

If you have any questions or comments please e-mail Me at GoLowDrew@Yahoo.com

 

Under Massive Construction

as of Jan 8, 2000, 8:28 PM

 

 

 

 

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