The back

Converting the rear of the car.

Converting the rear is made reasonably straightforward by using special rubber bumper conversion brackets which bolt straight onto the existing rubber bumper mounting points. The chrome bumper then bolts onto the conversion bracket by means of the standard fitting kit. No cutting is involved at the rear, however, it is necessary to weld new wing corners on below the rear lights as these are missing on rubber bumper wings.

Checklist for converting the back end:

Remove back bumper

Weld chrome bumper rear wing corner sections below tail lights and blend into bodywork

Fit chrome bumper conversion brackets to rubber bumper mounting points

Paint brackets and rear wing corner sections

Fit stainless steel or alloy rear bumper infill pieces

Fit rear chrome bumper


Removing the back bumper reveals the reinforced rear valance. This is retained and special conversion brackets are used to bolt the chrome bumper onto the rubber bumper mounting points.	The rounded corners (absent on rubber bumper wings) are available as a spare. They are welded onto the rubber bumper wing then blended in with filler (seen here primed and ready for painting).

Chrome bumper test-fitted prior to painting

On the left the two conversion brackets can be seen bolted to the existing holes with round-headed bumper bolts for neatness. These brackets are expensive but worth buying as they make fitting the rear bumper very straightforward indeed. The rear bumper simply bolts onto the studs on the conversion brackets using the standard chrome bumper fittings. The bumper and rear lights are test-fitted prior to painting.

The finished rear-end

The finished rear of the car. As with the front of the car, over riders are omitted to give a clean, uncluttered appearance; number plate illumination being provided by the standard early rubber bumper lamps fitted to a stainless steel backing plate. The rubber bumper exhaust can be retained until it is due for replacement.