I obtained my 350 GM crate engine from a posted classified ad at http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/ . The GM crate block was bought and installed in '93.The posting mentioned the block was removed from a 4X4 truck due to the lack of power. The block was removed after 60,000 miles. I made arrangements with the owner and took a weekend trip to pick it up. Cost of the seasoned long block was only $200.00!! A new GM crate block can be bought for $1300.00. I knew even if I did not use the heads, the block core would serve well for a mild buildup engine block. After buying a new engine stand, I unloaded the long block off my truck. After several weeks, I tore down the block to start my 350 project. My ideal goal is to keep this block at 350 cubic inches. I will not bore out the block unless the shop finds it necessary. If I do bore it, the next size would be a 355. Why keep to only a 350? Why not? A tire smoking 350 is better than another bigger cubic size engine when power and torque are produced at the lower engine size. Keeping the block size to 350 cubic inches offers the advantage of keeping the combustion chamber size small for the planned aluminum heads.
One of the first book on the reading list is David Vizard's "How To Build Max Performance Chevy Small Blocks On A Budget.
The pictures below were taken during the long block tear down.
I removed the heads from the block and discover that the #7 piston had a broken valve. The cylinder however did not have any damage. The cracked valve actually had a piece missing. Since the #7 cylinder did not have any damage, I suspect the head came with the broken valve from the factory. The pictures indicate excessive carbon buildup from use. The heads also have excessive carbon buildup with the #7 piston having an extreme amount.
The pictures above are of the engine turned upside-down. A large crank nut allowed me to turn the rotating assembly. The entire assembly turned fairly easy. Once I removed the pistons, the crank and cam turned extremely easy by hand.
The pictures above are of the block only with the crank shaft left installed.
Well, there it is. All the pieces in a box or on the floor pan. All those pieces and only the crank, block and pistons will be reused. All the bolts and other internal parts will be replaced.
Engine Casting 100660036 - '93 GM crate 350 iron block - 4 bolt mains Made in Mexico
Block Heads Air Flow Research 68 cc 1.6 rocker arms or
Edelbrock 64 cc Aluminum 1.6 rocker arms or
Chevy Vortec 64 cc with 1.6 rocker arms
Crank Factory cast iron - Chevy crate small block
Pistons/Rods Factory Chevy pieces fitted with new Speed Pro rings
Cam/lifters Comp X-treme 262H or 268H set, Edelbrock timing chain set
Bearings Clevite 77 H series
Bolts ARP crank, piston, head bolts
Intake Edelbrock Air Gap
Carburetor Edelbrock 600 CFM #1406 electric choke
Oil Pump High volume pump
Distributor MSD Pro Billet
Special options : Fel-Pro Gasket Set, Crank wiper, lifter valley oil baffle, 8 inch harmonic balancer
Block preparation will include chemical clean and honing. Freeze plugs and the installation of cam bearings will be done by a professional engine shop. Once I have the block checked by a professional engine shop, the options listed above may change.
This paragraph portion will be updated as I proceed through my 350 project.
Yes, I do plan on having the engine run on a dyno. I just have to know if the components and my work actually build a Chevy Small Block worth bragging about. :-)