HOP VARIETIES
Forms
of Hops
Buying & Storage of Hops
Simple Finesse with Hops
Dry and Wet
Hopping
CASCADE:
-- U.S.A
Ave alpha
4-5% Use in Ales & Lagers
Excellent flavour with
floral,spicy citric over-tones
.
ELSASSER.
-- AUSTRALIA
Ave. 5-6% Light Ales &
Lagers.
Originally French, now
grown in Australia, high class flavour and aroma.
FUGGLES:
- UK
Ave.alpha 4-5% Ales, Bitters & Stouts
Appropriate for use in
British styles.
HALLERTAUER: -- U.S.A
Ave. alpha 8% Lagers
The classic European Lager hops. Used in most the
European brands.
HERSBRUCKER:
-- GERMANY
Ave. alpha 3.5% Lagers and German
light Ales.
Excellent aroma and flavour very widely used in
commercial German beers.
NUGGET:
-- U.S.A - AUSTRALIA
Ave. alpha 13% General
purpose bittering hops.
Heavy herbal aroma,
appeals to some.
PROGRESS:
-- U.S.A
Ave. alpha 6% All English Styles.
Bred as a disease resistant alternative to
Fuggles, Goldings and has similar properties.
SAAZ:
- CZECH
Ave. alpha 4%. Pilsners and
Lagers.
The Noble Bohemian Hop. Its aroma is almost
A requisite
feature of a ‘true’ Continental Pilsner.
STICKLEBRACT: – NEW ZEALAND
Ave. alpha 13-14%. General
purpose.
Quite distinct from other New
Zealand types.
Unique aroma, characteristics similar to
Northern Brewer.
TETTNANGER: – U.S.A
Ave. alpha 5%. All Lagers also
Light Ales.
One of the Noble German hops, now grown
Successfully in the U.S.A. Retains its German
Heritage and is an excellent aroma hop.
CLUSTER:
-- U.S.A
Ave. alpha 6-8% all Ales
& Lagers.
The most widely used
bittering hops used in the USA. Medium spicy aroma and flavour. Seems to
appeal to brewers after a Victorian Bitter style.
GOLDINGS:
-- UK
Ave. alpha 3.5-4.5%. Ales
Bitters & Stouts
Used in all English
styles. Preferred over Fuggles for aroma.
GREEN BULLET:
--NEW ZEALAND
Ave. alpha 14% Light Ales
& Lagers.
Excellent bittering
combined with a first class aroma makes this a good choice for brewers wanting to use one variety for both bittering and finishing.
MOUNT HOOD:
-- U.S.A
Ave. alpha 5-8% Lagers.
US grown substitute for
Hallertau Mittlefruh, very close resemblance to the real thing. Magnificent flavour with fine aroma, good choice for dry hopping.
PRIDE OF RINGWOOD:
-- AUSTRALIA
Ave. alpha 9% Very good on all
fronts.
This hops is the mainstay of the Australian Hop
Industry. Most if not all Aussie beers contain it.
It is very versatile being an excellent bittering
hop, which also has impressive flavour and also exhibits a good aroma.
SPLAT:
– GERMANY
Ave. alpha 5%. German style beers generally.
One of the ‘noble’
hops it is a German land race
Variety named after
the area in which it is grown.
Excellent flavour and aroma.
SUPER ALPHA:
– NEW ZEALAND
Ave. alpha 12%. General purpose.
European style aroma with high alpha.
Used in Steinlager.
WILLAMETTE:
– U.S.A.
Ave. alpha 5-6%. Ales generally.
Triploid daughter of Fuggles. Characterized by
low alpha and mild aroma similar to Fuggles.
Forms of Hops
Hops are
available to the home brewers in leaf (whole), plug and pellets. Whole hops
are the most traditional form and the most appropriate to home brewing.
These are the hops cones, or flowers, in their natural state. They can be
obtained from home brew shops loose, but the best samples are available
compressed and vacuum-packed in hermetically sealed foil wrappers. This
packaging keeps them fresh for much longer periods. Another stable form of
hops, useful to the home brewer is a hop plug. These are whole hops that
have been compressed under high pressure into 14g plugs of about 25mm
diameter and then vacuum packed in foil sachet to preserve them.These expand
into whole hops during the boil and behave in exactly the same way. The
plugs are fairly accurate 14g, simplifying the weighing of ingredients and
the packaging technique seals in freshness. Pellet hops are hops that have
been ground to a powder and compressed into pellets about 25mm long by 5mm
in diameter. This is the most common form of hops used by home brewers (kit
brewers). They come in foil packs of about 12g (tea bag hops) 25g and 50g
packs from your home brew shop
Buying & Storage of Hops
When buying hops
in a home brew shop, you will see that they come in two distinct
forms-flowers, commonly known as cones because of their conical shape
and pellets. The advantage of pellets is twofold: first, they take up much
less space for their weight; secondly; they are likely to keep better. If
exposed to oxygen, the oils in the hops will turn rancid through the process
of oxidization.
But because pelletization encloses most of these oils and keeps them safe
from contamination by oxygen, the oils stay fresher for a longer period.
Pellets have another advantage in that, because they have been already
pulverized, they don’t need as long a boil to extract the bitterness.Hops should be
stored in as cold a place as possible, away
from the light and preferably in
vacuum-sealed packs.The better home brew shops keep their hops this way
and, to maintain their freshness, it is simply a matter of popping them into
the freezer when you get home. It is almost impossible to put a numerical value on flavour and aroma, so hops are always rated by bitterness,That is,
according to the proportion of Alpha Acid they have in their make up.
This is recorded as the proportion of alpha acid per weight of hops. As a
general rule, the varieties of hops considered to have the finest aroma and
flavour are those with low acid ratings. So the famous Saaz hops from
Czechoslovakia, regarded by most as being the finest aroma hops in the
world, usually have an alpha-acid rating of around 3-4%, where as the
standard Australian hop, the Pride of Ringwood,Rates at between
9-10%. The result is that to achieve a given amount of bitterness in the
beer you must use a lot more of Saaz hops than Pride of Ringwood. As a
consequence, most Australian brewers, aiming to keep costs down as far as
possible, use the Australian hop with its high bitterness rating all the
time. We home brewers, not being involved in massive sales wars and probably
not having gone bankrupt, don’t have to worry quite so much about the cost
of our hops.We can use
virtually whatever we can lay our hands on.This freedom, in fact, is one of
the great pleasures of home brewing. However, it is no use just throwing in
any old bunch of hops and hoping for the best, as you never know what will
come out at the end. At one extreme, your beer could be so bitter that it
can only be poured down the sink; at the other end; it might taste like
barley sugar. Fortunately, there is an easy way to stop these problems.
NOTE: Hop
pellets are the same material as dried hops (flowers-cones) except
that it has been milled to a powder then compressed into pellets. This
process causes them to yield more flavour and bitterness than dried hops.
Thus, when using pellets, you only need to use about 60% of the weight of
dried hops.
Simple Finesse With Hops
The use of fresh whole
or pelletized hops in a knowledgeable manner can immensely improve the
quality of your home brewed beers. It is relatively inexpensive and the
procedures are virtually worry-free. Most kit beers are designed to have
relatively low bitterness. Many are flavoured with hop extract, which contributes bitterness but none of the other often desirable hop characteristics to the beer. Along with substituting light malt extract or
dextrose for the sugar that many kit instructions call for, adding a small
amount of bittering hops will help balance the flavour. For a 23litre
batch,12-14g of low to medium bittering hops such as Hallertauer, Cascade,
Goldings or
Willamette boiled for 10-20 minutes will make a positive and noticeable
contribution to your kit beer. Adding 12-14g of low to medium hops that are
noted for their flavour during the last 5-10 minutes of the boil will
contribute a complex hop flavour that will otherwise be lacking if hop
extract is listed as an ingredient of the kit beer. Fuggles, Willamette,
Hallertauer, Mt Hood, Cascade, Goldings, Tettanger and Saaz are among the
more popular aroma hops. Finally, to add aromatic finesse to any beer, add
5-10g of aroma hops during the last minute of the
boil, then immediately strain, spurge and transfer to your fermenter. By
including this step in your brewing process, you will create a balance,
complexity and depth of character in your beer that is missing from most kit
beers. For those who choose to continue their brewing endeavours with simple
kit beers, these three hop infusions may provide the complexity and
satisfaction you have been seeking in your homebrewed beer.
Dry and Wet Hopping
There is a
final way of extracting hop aroma, which is used by
commercial breweries in Europe and Britain. This is know as
Dry Hopping
because the hops themselves do not come in contact with the hot wort. Dry
hopping is best done after the wort has fermented. If you wish to dry hop
and intend to bottle your beer, it should be transferred into a secondary fermenter in which you have already put a proportion of hops. This fermenter
should well sealed with a lid and airlock to prevent any contact with the
air, and the beer left for a minimum of 10 days for the aroma of the hops to
infuse.
(see notes on Racking) If you are kegging your beer, just add the hops at the same time as you
transfer the beer to the keg. If you don’t like the idea of adding
unsterilised hops to your freshly brewed beer, there is an alternative way
which is called Wet Hopping. Put the hops into a clean jug and pour
boiling water over them,then stir the mixture and pour it through a fine
strainer into your beer.