My Venetian Women's Suit of Ruffs.
With the Uber Lace.
|The 2 Uber laces I plan to use for my new ruffs, showing the 1 cm scale for size. Large lace for the neck ruff, small for the shoulder ruffs.|
08 November 2008
I've been wanting to make this lace up into a suit of ruffs for some time. Inspired by the release of Patterns of Fashion 4: The cut and construction of linen shirts, smocks, neckwear, headwear and accessories for men and women c. 1540 - 1660: 4 (Paperback), I felt the desperate need to do them NOW.
|The 2 Uber laces I plan to use for my new ruffs.|
Silk Organza. Light gauzy fabrics were known to be used in the production of ruffs. Italy, and in particular Venice, had its own sericulture. Silk Organza was known and used at the time for other purposes, therefore is it not unreasonable to expect that Venetians used this luxury fabric for the production of their ruffs. While cotton was known to Venice, as it was produced in Sicily, and could have been used, I tend toward linen and silk as best fabrics for the purpose and time.
A section of the ruff before pleating, showing silk organza band, double thickness, with the lace attached and wire stitched into place.
Wire. I have incorporated wire in the edge of the ruff to help maintain its form. Wire of varying gauges was produced at the time. Suportase, also known as Robarto, a stand propped under the ruff but separate from the ruff was known and made of wire. I am considering the use of a suportase for these ruffs. In the Arnold book it has much more magnificent photos of the suportase I have on my page of extant ruffs. The suportase will happen after the ruffs are completed.
Lace. Serendipity smiled on me some time back when I found these, and other, laces for sale at very reasonable askings. They are perfect for 16th century recreations of dress, especially Venetian dress.
Point Gotico on Upstanding Collar for Décolletage. Late C16 - C17
The article is available for free down load:
|Portrait of a Woman Seated, Domenico Tintoretto, late 16th century. Location unknown Showing the style of ruff, and the fashion in which it will be worn that I am intending for this new set.|
On to Images showing Ruffs with Dress
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