|Without a doubt, everyone wants to enhance the look of their vehicle. Most often the easiest way is with bolt-on-accessories. This category can include everything from lighting to protection. Project Quad Cab is no stranger to cutom touches, so we therefore need to add products that enhance its already "tough" stance. The list of bolt-on-accessories will include......|
|1. Billet alluminum Upper Grille
2. Billet alluminum Lower Bumper Grille
3. Front Euroguard Grille Guard
4. Rear Euroguard Taillight Guards
5. Con-Fer Roof Rack
6. Pre-runner style in-bed Spare Tire Carrier
7. Strategically placed Auxillary Lighting
8. Clear corner lights
9. Euro Tail Lights
10. Euro Side Marker Lights
11. Xenon Headlight Bulbs
12. Rear Axle Skid Truss
13. 4x4 Extended Fender Flares
14. Lund Eclipse Hood Scoops
15. Mopar Chrome differential cover
16. More To Come (and as budget allows).......
|1. I ordered the billet upper and lower grille pieces from a dealer on E-bay. They install easily over the existing grille without having to first cut it out, something you can't reverse with the other types if you ever want to change back or sell your truck (heaven forbid!).
2. The front grille guard is a Euroguard from Smittybilt along with the rear taillight Euroguards.
3.The roof rack size is 48"x36"x4" and is made by Con-ferr. The mounting hardware is custom made since NO ONE makes a mount for the Quad Cab yet. I would have prefered the "gutter-mount" type because it offers a sturdier mount especially if you want to put a spare up top. Either way, I used Con-ferr's "well nut" mounting system and re-inforced the bolts by dropping the headliner and installing 3" diameter washers and 1/4" locknuts in the front and rear. By the way, I had to drill 8 HOLES in my brand new truck's roof, ouch!!!!!
4. The pre-runner style spare tire mount is from AIM Industries (Mesa, AZ) and bolts in the bed of the truck using 1/2"x3" bolts and 3" diameter washers (you have to purchase seperately, I went to Home Depot). You have to be carefull to line up the carrier so that it doesn't sit over the top of a bed support that runs along the bottom (I think there's about 3 of them on the Quad Cab's 5'3" bed. What's great about this type of spare set up is that the weight is held at a reasonable height to not affect center of gravity compared to a roof mounted spare. Plus, the spare is easy to get to, especially if you have a 35" tire sitting there. I had mine powdercoated blue to match the Patriot Blue paint. It also uses a spinner to hold the tire and wheel down and includes a pre-drilled hole at the end of the shaft so you can mount a lock.
5. Next, I mounted four PIAA projector style lights on the roof rack (Two in front, Two in rear). I think they give a more modern look compared to traditional 6" KC lights. The light output isn't that bad and you can swivel and rotate each light in any direction. I ran all the wiring down through a hole drilled in the roof and through a channel glued to the inside headliner. The switches are mounted in a custom pod that I fabricated in the overhead console. This puts them up high where I can turn them on without obstruction. I then replaced the front bumper fog lights with PIAA 4" round amber projection lights. I didn't want to run clumsy wires in the engine bay and through the firewal, so I installed a remote control kit. It allows me to turn my lights on with a wireless remote up to 250 feet away. Plus, you can throw away the wiring that came with the lights since the kit includes everything you need. All it takes is 2 wires hooked up to the positive battery terminal, 1 ground wire and 1 wire hooked up to the ground and power lead on your lights.The included module mounts anywhere in the engine bay (using an existing screw if you don't want to drill) and hooks into a pre-terminated wiring harness, it's FOOL PROOF.
6. I also purchased the clear corner lights on E-bay and installed them in about 20 minutes. You need a long torx wrench to unscrew 1 bolt on each light (the owner's manual shows you how). My new corner lights also included a new wiring harness for a small running light on the end. You have to cut the old harness off and splice the new wires in. Without doing this, the old bulb harness wouldn't fit into the new corners. I also put in all amber bulbs to give it a factory look at night (also to make it Arizona street legal).
7. The Xenon headlight bulbs are a huge pain to install. Luckily, I had the front bumper off to install the fog lights when doing the headlights. The headache comes from the fact that you have to yank the headlight assembly out of the sheetmetal. This can be nerve wrecking since you don't know how much pulling it'll take before something breaks. But when you do get them off it's pretty easy to pull the light harness out and twist in the new bulbs. The Xenon gas inside the bulbs give the light output a white/blueish glow. They simulate the look of expensive HID (high intensity discharge) lights found on BMW's and Mercedes. The real Xenon kit costs about $1200, so the $50 replacement bulbs sure fit better in my budget.
8. The fender flares are OEM that come on new 4x4 Dakotas. They install using a plastic guide pin located at the top of the flare, then held tight using torx screws. All of the holes are already punched inside the fender lip, so no drilling is required. A water resistant seal is held between the flare and the body using a strip of 3M tape. I could only install the rear flares since the front tires still rub a little under full turn on off camber inclines or turns. When the lift spindles come out I'll be able to put on the front ones.
10. I just ordered the Axle Skid Truss, Hood Scoop and Mopar Chrome Diff. cover from Summitt and they should arrive in about a week. I'll document in detail each ones install when I do it. Along with pictures of EVERYTHING above.