Mike’s Fisherman or Seaman’s Scarf for the Bond ISM or USM Knitting Machine 

I call this Mike’s Scarf since my brother-in-law (BIL) got the first one I made; it’s just a simple Fisherman or Seaman’s scarf.  Since my BIL & SIL & husband are all seamen, and have been for the last 15+ years in the Bering Sea, Pacific Ocean and in the Puget Sound, I decided to make some of these.  I have used Red Heart Soft & Caron Soft and the scarves turned out to be as soft and light as they are warm, as well as easily thrown in the washing machine.  I’ve also made them of 100% wool in plain and fashion colors as gifts for non-seagoing friends and family; remember to block the ends but not the ribbing if you use wool.  The two ends cross in front and keep the chest extra warm for when the wearer goes out in the weather, and the ends are short so they don’t get caught in equipment or lines which could potentially cause problems for the wearer. In the gift I also included a small card with little bit about the history of the seaman’s scarf from the web site and that makes it even more special.  I just printed it out on card stock and attached it to the scarf with a ribbon so they would find it and be able to read the history.  The card I used is below the pattern, it's included as an example of what yours could look like if you choose to make one, but you can also just print this one out and use it. 

If anyone doesn't want me to use the links to their page or has difficulty with anything here please email me and I will make it right. And yes, Mike's face is blured on purpose, I do that to my family pictures if they request it.

Mike wearing his new scarf, Christmas 2002.

Pattern for Mike’s Fisherman or Seaman’s Scarf

In worsted weight yarn of your choice for the Bond/ISM/USM, or other bulky machine that will knit worsted weight yarn. However, these directions are specifically for the Boond/ISM/USM 8mm knitting frames.   You are going to knit two halves and join at the center back of the neck area. 

Gauge

Not really important, though I would use a loose gauge so the fabric drapes and the tuck or fisherman’s rib sts can easily be formed.  On the Blue Bond I used keyplate 3 (for the ISM or USM I would use the dot 3 or the smaller of the double sided one, but your best bet is to swatch to see how you like the feel of the fabric). 

CAST-ON

Using KP3, pull out and cast on 50 sts and knit 10 rows of waste yarn,

Hang ravel cord

Use your favorite closed cast-on method and cast on with main yarn; I tried a double e-wrap, the crochet cast-on, and a plain e-wrap on the 50 sts, and they all look fine. You can also just do an e-wrap, hang hem, hang ravel cord, fold over hem, and start knitting.... ;-)  The first way just takes some of the stress off the main yarn, but it's not necessary.

Knit 5 rows and convert to seed st ribbing or garter st, or 1X1 ribbing (I reformed every other row to purl sts which made it a garter st edging).  Which ever you choose, be consistent on the L5 and R5 sts on the edge, all the way up to the ribbing at the neck. 

Main Section RC000

Knit a total of 96 rows (longer if you want a longer scarf, this one falls around mid-chest on a big man), but reform every 20 rows or so into fisherman’s rib or a lacy tuck stitch, or design your own cable pattern across the center 40 sts. Remember to reform L5 and R5 edge sts in your chosen edging st. 

((What I did is every 20 rows reform every other column of sts by dropping down to the last row of garter st and then latching up every other ladder; this is known as a fisherman’s rib or a reverse tuck st - reverse because it’s not being knit it’s being purled, or you are pulling the st toward you instead of the machine pulling the st away from you))

Ribbing for Neck RC 000

Knit for 48 rows or around 8 inches and convert to 1X1 ribbing. 

**((Take your gauge and multiply your row count per inch X 8 inches to get how many rows exactly. 

 Example: if row gauge is the same as mine you would work this equation: 24 r = 4" (convert 24/4=6 rows to the inch); now take 6 r X 8” = 48 rows.  So RC would equal 48 rows.)) 

Take off on waste yarn and remove from machine, put aside and make another just like it...or totally different if you like. 

When you have both sides completed follow grafting instructions on the Magicables web site http://www.magiccables.com/tip2.html to graft the two sides together at neck edge.  On the first one I tried grafting in rib and gave up, I just sewed the two pieces together, my BIL never noticed and loves his scarf, he thinks it’s supposed to be that way and he can easily see where the center back of the neck is.  My SIL loves it too and steals it every chance she gets!  I had more time on my second try at grafting on the machine so it turned out better, moral is to take your time in learning to graft!  Especially since you are grafting ribbing, not straight stocking st.  And believe me, no one is going to notice if you just do a three needle bind off!!  (Oh, and if you find an error let me know and I’ll correct the pattern!)

My copyright notice:  YOU MAY NOT SELL THIS PATTERN. But you are welcome to print and use this pattern and gift tag, and to make money off it if you decide to sell what you make, but please give proper credit to the artist and keep this notice with the pattern if you decide to copy or print these directions for use anywhere or use them for a club meeting. And if you feel moved to make one and donate to either a veteran’s home or the merchant marines charity - well, it would be a good thing.  AGAIN: You may not sell this pattern, it is to remain free for the many new machine knitters that join our ranks every year. Happy Knitting!! 

Thank you, 

Cut out the tag below (or use this as an example of one you could make) and tie on scarf with ribbon so they know the history.  I married into a seafaring family so to me it’s an important part of the gift, it just gives it that extra special something.