|Unless otherwise noted, these recipes have been gathered from the
Mailing List . Where I have not credited original contributors
it is because I don't know who they were. If you see something of
yours here, let me know and I will be glad to give you credit! (Also
let me know if it is or is NOT all right to include your e-mail address)
Milk Paint Recipe
from the Homestead
Lee--does milk paint hold up well outside? Can it be colored? (Gotta
keep the barn red!) Do you know how to make it?
Yes, yes and yes. It holds up great outside - very waterproof,
almost plastic-like. Pioneers painted canvas roofs of sheds and waterproofed
their covered wagons with it. You can color it with any sort of water
soluble powdered dye. Art stores usually carry them, or you could
even use RIT or any of those cheapie dyes from the drugstore. Just
experiment first with the color to see how much of it you need to put in.
To make 5 gallons of milk paint:
Stir 2 quarts of builder's lime, OR 3 quarts of sifted white hardwood
ashes (one or the other, not both) into 4 gallons of skim milk. Stir
very thoroughly. Then, stir in one gallon of boiled linseed oil.
Then add your dye. Last, strain the paint through a piece of cheesecloth
to get any lumps out. That's it! Just be sure you use it within
2 days of mixing it.
from the Homestead
Quick Lime can be used. When lime is
added to moisture it heats up.
Really heats up. Do not use plastic
buckets or utensils. They will melt.
Whitewash is really only lime and water. Other ingredients added
for durability. We use one cup salt (table salt - sodium chloride),
2 cups lime, 2 cups calcium chloride to a gallon of water. The consistency
should be like milk. For larger amounts - a stiff paste can be made
of 38 lbs quicklime to 8 gallons of water or 50 lbs hydrated lime
to 6 gallons of water, then thinned with additional water to the milk consistency.
Other names of the limes used are chemical hydrate, ag spray hydrate,
finishing lime, pressure hydrated lime. The more refined the lime
the smoother the paint, especially important if you plan to spray the paint.
One old timer I know of uses Kerosene in the mixture. She likes
the oil base for painting. Given the quality of lime mentioned above,
I am reluctant - of course when I look "aghast" I get laughed at - after
all she's still around.
Another Regarding whitewash - Prepare whitewash in well ventilated areas
- we always do this outside! Hydrated Lime or option is casein, which
makes the solution oil-based also. In the days when they had an abundance
of milk, it was used as the liquid - this gives the whitewash a latex-like
quality. Anyway the calcium chloride added keeps the paint from being
so chalky and adds to the durability, nice if used where temperature get
very cold. White glue or white Portland cement can also be added
to get a heavy cream consistency if you want a thicker paint.
As you can see there is an abundance of options. That's why I
settled for the simpler method. It worked, it lasts. Oh, mix
only what you think you can use each time - it doesn't keep well.
Wood Stain and preservative
Mixture #1 - water repellant preservative
Penta concentrate 10:1
1 3/4 qts Boiled Linseed
1/4 to 1/2 lb Paraffin Wax
4 gallons Mineral spirits,
Turpentine, or #1 or #2 fuel oil
2 to 6 fluid oz Color Pigment / gallon of the above mix
Mixture #2 - pigmented stain
3 gallons Boiled Linseed Oil
1/2 lb. paraffin
colors in oil (tinting colors)
1 gallon paint thinner, mineral
spirits, turpentine, or #1 or #2 fuel oil
In warm, humid climates where fungal growth may be a problem, double
the amount of Penta. Dissolve the paraffin by melting it in a double boiler
before adding it to the other ingredients. Paraffin is highly flammable:
do not attempt to melt it in a regular pan. Use only a double boiler.
Allow the solution to stand overnight before use, stirring occassionally
to keep the pigments in suspension.
Mixture #3 - alternative preservative w/o penta
1 oz paraffin
wax (by weight)
3 1/4 qts. Mineral Spirits, Turpentine, or Paint Thinner
(to make 1 gallon total)
This is a decay-resistant formula which should prevent wood from reabsorbing
moisture. Its preservative effects are not as great as either of the other
two mixtures but for those sensitive to chemicals such as Penta this is
an option. Reapply more frequently than you would for other stains and
Notes on all stain/preservative recipes:
Your first application of stain will not last as long as subsequent
applications. You will need to reapply after one year. Subsequent applications
may be made on two to five year intervals, depending on your climate and
the wood in question. You will have to use your judgement.
All stain recipes are the product of the USDA Forest Products Laboratory,
PO Box 5130, Madison, WI 53705. All the above recipes are intended for
above ground use only.
"Penta" is pentachlorphenol and is extremely hazardous - read and follow
all label recommendations carefully. Mineral spirits, turpentine, paint
thinner, must also be carefully handled. A rag soaked in one of these substances
and left wadded up and wet may spontaneously combust. That goes for a rag
soaked in the stain you make from them as well. Read and follow ALL label
recomendations carefully when handling these substances..
Care and caution should be exercised at all times during the mixing
process. Ingredients are highly flammable and volatile. Mix in a well ventilated
area. Keep away from heat, sparks, or flame. Don't blame the Forest Products
laboratory (or me, either!) if you set yourself on fire or pass out from
breathing the fumes because you didn't exercise due caution. You have been
Making Wax from Bayberries
From "Successful Berry Growing" by Gene
Myrica cerifera is the wax myrtle, a tall shrub or small tree with grey
berries. M. pennsylvanica, the regular bayberry, is a smaller plant,
growing 3 to about 8 feet tall. Both are common on the East Coast.
There's no reason why you couldn't make bayberry candles like our ancestors
did, or at least make enough bayberry wax to scent tallow wax candles.
Pick the berries around November 1 and boil them in water until the mixture
reaches the consistency of thick syrup. Strain out the berry skins
and seeds. When cooled the wax hardens, of course. Reheat and
melt it for dipping candles.
. . . dip homemade candles without using candle molds. It's very
simple, really. A piece of wick is dipped into the hot wax and drawn
out immediately. Some wax adheres to the wick and dries. Then
the wick is dipped and dried again. Eventually the wax builds up
with succeeding layers to a candle of normal size.
Baybery wax can also be used to make soap, using it in place of animal
<End quoted text>
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Updated: November 12, 2000
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