From time to time I am contacted by birders who are coming to Japan and are seeking birding information. Many are coming to Tokyo on business or other non-birding matters, and have little time to indulge their hobby here and no way of getting out into the countryside. Here is a brief overview of the most easily accessible birding sites within the metropolitan Tokyo area, all of which may be reached within an hour by train. There is no claim to originality or completeness, but it is a place to start if you have only a free day or a few free hours here.

The metropolitan train system is complicated but efficient, and a visitor who remains calm and observant will be able to make his way through the maze. The station names and directions are given in Japanese kanji, Japanese kana, Roman letters, and occasionally in Korean characters, but not all are on every sign: series of signs tend to alternate scripts. Nevertheless, patience in following the arrows and indicators will reward you with success. The basic scheme is that the Yamanote Line is a circular loop surrounding downtown, with major stations Ueno, Tokyo, Shibuya, Shinjuku spread along it, and 25 other stations between them. From the Yamanote Line, other train and subway lines cross or radiate out in all directions. Some you can transfer to without buying a new ticket; others require you to exit one line and re-enter another. (It depends on ownership.) Another important basic is that express trains have red or green characters in their destination panels, while locals are in black-and-white. That should be enough to get you started.

Winter (December to March) is the best birding season, with many winterers from farther north. There are few breeders that are not residents. Migration in the metropolitan area is noticeable primarily as shorebirds along Tokyo Bay; small passerines pass through quickly and quietly and are seldom seen in the city.

1. Meijijingu Koen (Park) is large and right downtown. It contains an important Shinto shrine, sports and recreation facilities, and areas of deep mixed woodland and open parkland, the home most noticeably of Large-billed and Carrion Crows, but also of the most common residents (Great Tit, Japanese White-eye, Oriental Turtle Dove, Brown-eared Bulbul, Grey Starling) and wintering species (Dusky, Brown and Pale Thrushes, Red-flanked Bluetail, Daurian Redstart). It is also a place to find Varied Tit in the city, and its ponds sometimes hold a few wintering Mandarin Duck. The most promising pond is at the north end, near Yoyogi Station (Yamanote Line).

2. Yatsu Higata is a Ramsar site, and a phenomenon-- a mudflat completely enclosed by city. A narrow canal leads out to Tokyo Bay far away, and the tide comes in and out about two hours after the stated Tokyo tides (use the 'Harumi (Tokyo), Tokyo' site on the TIDE CHARTS ). There is also a small freshwater pond, some reedbeds, and a bit of parkland. Yatsu has an English website with tide times and recently-sighted species, YATSUHIGATA, but it is not always current. Yatsu is best near low tide, but if this is your first trip to Japan, there are birds of interest at any time. Best in migration for shorebirds, in most winters it will have a Saunders's Gull among the Black-headed Gulls. You can walk completely around the mudflat, but go at least as far as the Nature House (small admission charge) for exhibits, the day's sightings, a restaurant, and big windows with mounted spotting scopes. It is not visible from the station, but is only a five-minute walk away and easy to find. From Tokyo Station, take the Keiyo Line (Tokyo is the terminal, so you cannot go in the wrong direction) to Minami-Funabashi Station. It is a local station, so either catch a local train at Tokyo Station or change to a local train at Maihama (the Disneyland stop). There is only one exit gate. As you pass out the wickets, a convenience store is in front of you. Turn right and leave the station. Turn right again and take the sidewalk about 100 meters to a pedestrian overpass. Take the overpass (which actually goes under, not over, the elevated freeway) and go down the other side. At the bottom, turn 180 degrees (i.e. walk in the opposite direction from your descent of the steps), cross at the light, and the mudflats begin at that corner, on your left.

3. Oi Bird Park (Oi Yacho Koen) is similar to Yatsu but smaller. It is pleasant and very convenient to downtown Tokyo. Oi is a good place to see Water Rail, which often come out onto the mudflats in front of the visitor center. From Hamamatsucho Station (Yamanote Line), take the Tokyo Monorail to Ryutsu-senta (Ryutsu Center) Station; take the only exit and turn right outside the ticket gate. Walk a few meters to the road and turn right again (in the direction of 'Ota Stadium'). Walk straight-- under the monorail track, over the big canal, under the motorway overpass-- and then you will find the Oi Yacho Koen entrance gate 300 meters farther on your right. Don't go too late-- the gates are locked and Oi becomes inaccessible from 5 p.m. (from 4:30 p.m. in the winter months). The tide comes in and out about one hour after the stated Tokyo tides (use the 'Harumi (Tokyo), Tokyo' site on the TIDE CHARTS ).

4. Kasai Rinkai Koen is a multi-use bayside park. It has picnic grounds, concessions and promenades, but also freshwater ponds and two coastal islets. In the winter there are many species of ducks in the pond, and out on the bay, large rafts of Greater Scaup, Eared and Great Crested Grebes. Long-tailed Duck, and Smew occasionally appear. One of the islets is accessible, and is a good viewing point for the other islet, which is inaccessible and consequently has a good variety of shore- and waterbirds in winter and in migration. Rarely, Black-faced Spoonbills overwinter. (For low tide times, use the 'Hunabasi, Tiba' site on the TIDE CHARTS ). After scanning the island (a little distant for binoculars alone, unfortunately), cross the bridge back to the mainland, turn right along the path, and you will soon come to a pond on your left. There are several paths through the scrub beyond it, with hides from which you can view both saltwater and freshwater areas. Take the Keiyo Line, the same train line as for Yatsu Higata, but get off earlier, at Kasairinkaikoen Station (the 5th stop from Tokyo on the local, and it is a local stop). Walk along the broad paved path toward the large glassed building on the skyline; the two islets will be in view beyond it.

Glassed Viewpoint at Kasairinkaikoen

5. Ueno (Shinobazu) Pond in winter is a mass of ducks, and sometimes rarities appear-- Lesser Scaup, Baikal Teal, Smew. In summer it is of little or no interest. It is adjacent to the Ueno Zoo, and through the bars you can see a wild colony of Great Cormorants. Ueno Park is nearest Ueno Station on the Yamanote Line, but is more easily reached from the next one, Okachimachi Station, which is much smaller and less confusing. Exit from the north end of the station (the end in the direction of Ueno Station), turn left at the street, right at the next major corner (a very broad avenue) and at the end of the next block you will see a bit of the pond and park on the far left corner, behind a MacDonald's.

6. Mt. Takao is the nearest 'mountain' birding. Although Takao-san is only 600 meters high, you should be able to find Eurasian Jay, Varied Tit, Japanese Green Woodpecker here, and in the winter, buntings. Spring migration may bring you Blue-and-white Flycatcher, Eastern Crowned Warbler, Stub-tailed Warbler. It has an English-language website-- HACHIOJI . From Shinjuku Station (Yamanote Line), take the Keio Line or the Keio New Line to Takaosanguchi Station, which is at the base of the mountain. You can take the cable car or walk the numerous trails or both.

7. Riverine birding is available along the Tamagawa (Tama River). The river mouth, near Kawasaki, is good (best at low tide-- (use the 'Kawasaki (Siohama Ungo), Kanagawa' site on the TIDE CHARTS )-- for shorebirds and terns in migration (and Least Terns in summer), and gulls and ducks in winter. Take the Keikin Kyuko Line from Shinagawa Station (Yamanote Line) to Keikyu-Kawasaki Station (to save time, take the Express with green characters). Change inside the station to its branch line, the Daishi Line, by going downstairs. Take this short line to the last station, . Walk straight out the station's only exit, past the taxi stand and public toilets, to the cross street and turn left. Walk straight to the end of the road (a few blocks, 5-10 minutes) to its dead end, which is the embankment of the river. Turn right on the path, and bird until it ends at the river mouth.

Tama River mouth

(photo courtesy of Melody McFarland)

Birding farther up the river requires a different route from Tokyo. From Shinjuku (Yamanote Line), take either the Keio Line or Keio New Line (as for Mt. Takao) to Seiseki-sakuragaoka Station or the Odakyu Line to Noborito Station. These will take you to near different sections of the Tama River, either of which have lengths of riverbank walking paths. The river, however, is not easy to find, because the stations are enclosed in a maze of small shops. As you travel from Tokyo, however, you will see the broad riverbed when your train passes over the bridge; then, when you exit the station, find yourself a route back in the direction of the bridge and river, and a bit of wandering should deliver you to its banks within 5 or 10 minutes (in extremis, just say, 'Tama-gawa?'-- it's phonetic-- to a passerby, and they'll point you in the right direction). Residents of interest include Japanese Wagtail, Azure-winged Magpie, and on gravelly islets, Long-billed Plover. Spring brings Oriental Reed Warbler and Zitting Cisticola.

Hachijo-jima is the southernmost of the Izu Islands, located south of Tokyo and within its political district. Hachijo Island hosts the endemics associated with this chain-- Izu Thrush and Ijima's Leaf-Warbler (an endemic breeder from early April to late September)-- and a couple of endemic subspecies (Varied Tit and Japanese Robin).

Hachijo became the prime spot to see these endemics after the Miyake-jima volcanic eruption of July 2000, and while Miyake-jima has been opened up again to the public (as of May 2005), gas continues to be discharged from the crater and gas masks are currently required for designated areas (the risk of further eruptions is considered low at present). This, coupled with the extended opportunity for sea watching from the significantly longer ferry trip, continues to make Hachijo an attractive option.

Hotaru Suiro

The birding: Hotaru Suiro is considered one of the prime birding spots on the island, where it is possible to pick up all of the above-mentioned species. Additionally, Japanese Wood-Pigeon, Chinese Bamboo-Partridge, Little Cuckoo (late April through September), Japanese Bush-Warbler, and Scaly Thrush are common in the area. Hotaru Suiro is located in the middle of the island. To get there, follow the river just south of the ferry dock (Sokodo Port). The northern and western slopes of Mt. Mihara (the southern of the island's two main 'mountains') also offer good birding.

From the ferry: The birding from the ferry can be quite good. Black-footed, Laysan, and Short-tailed Albatrosses; Northern Fulmar; Bulwer's and Bonin Petrels; Streaked, Wedge-tailed, Sooty, and Short-tailed Shearwaters; Tristam's and Swinhoe's Storm-Petrels; Brown Booby; Temminck's Cormorant; South Polar Skua; Pomarine, Parasitic, and Long-tailed Jaegers; and Japanese and Ancient Murrelets are all possible at different times of the year.

Getting there: The Tokai Kisen Ferry Company provides service from Tokyo, making stops at MIYAKEJIMA, Mikura, and Hachijo Islands. Reservations can be made at (03) 5472-9999 (in Japanese, though staff may be able to handle some clear and simple English). To get to the ferry, take the Yamanote Line to Hamamatsu-cho Station. Follow the signs towards the Takeshiba-sanbashi (pier). As you exit the station, turn right. The pier is straight ahead and a 10- to 15-minute walk. The Tokai Kisen building is on the right of the circular courtyard with a giant mast in the center. The ferry leaves at 22:30.

Additionally, there are flights available. Call Air Nippon (0120-029-222) for information.

Accommodation: There are several options. One is the Hotel Mantenbo (Tel. 04996-2-7250).

Another is the Minshuku Sokodo-so (Tange-san is the owner and he speaks a bit of English). The address is 1307 Mine, Hachijo-machi, Hachijojima, Tokyo 100-1511 (Tel. 04996-2-0092 / fax 04996-2-0925).

Additionally, there is a free campsite, though reservations are required (to book, call the ward office at 04996-2-1121 in Japanese). To get to the campsite, head north from the dock (turning right on the main road). The campsite is on the right after 5-10 minutes' walking.

Rentals: Car and bicycle hire are both possible. Ask at the desk in the ferry building lobby at the port on Hachijo.

Thanks to Des Allen, Chris Cook, Rob Massom, Sean Minns, and Kaz Shinoda for providing much of the information I have included here.

Mike Yough (May 2006)

The Sagami River arches around the eastern flanks of the Tanzawa Mountains in southwestern Kanagawa, and empties into Sagami Bay at Hiratsuka. It is a large river with a broad, artificially constructed basin that hosts multi-use activities, from kite-flying to dirt-biking, and can be busy on weekends and holidays; but quiet stretches do occur. The middle and lower river parallels the JR Sagami Line (running from Hachioji in the north to Chigasaki in the south), so that it can be reached by foot from several stations.

I usually disembark at Sobudaishita Station and spend several hours walking the river bank north to Harataima (the second station northward) and then cutting eastward another 30 minutes to Sagami Pond (Sagamihara Chosuichi), a municipal reservoir for the city of Sagamihara. It is a long day's journey.

From the lone Sobudaishita exit, the river will be behind you, though well out of sight beyond the rice fields. Leave the station, turn left and walk down to the first leftward access; turn left again there and work your way approximately straight down to the river. These rice fields have seen better days, as many of them have now been filled in for truck gardening. Over the years, though, they have produced Striated Heron, Gray-headed Lapwing, Painted Snipe, Oriental Pratincole, and Long-toed and Temminck's Stint, so the fields are well worth meandering among on your way to the river.

Rice fields at Sobudaishita

Eventually, you will come to the bordering road, a shrubbed or treed, somewhat landscaped, margin, and then the eastern bank of the Sagami River. On the other side of the river are more (and vaster) rice fields, reached from the high Zakaibashi bridge to your left, but they are seem to be assiduously fumigated in season, and have produced little of interest for me, beyond a Green Sandpiper once upon a time. Turn right along the river bank and work your way northward. You will find that you have to leave the river at a couple of places and use the road which parallels it (Hy 46, the Sagamihara-Chigasaki Sen), or intervening paddy roads, but you can get back down to the river again at various points.

A typical view of the Sagami River

About midway along this stretch of the river is a dam or overflow, behind which deeper water makes good habitat for wintering ducks, including Falcated Teal and the occasional Goldeneye or Smew. In fall, young Striated Herons make their way down from the upper reaches of the river to line up with the other egrets along the overflow.

Water control area 'dam'

Along the river are weed patches that harbour Common Reed Buntings, Rustic Buntings and thrushes (including the occasional White's Thrush) in the winter, and the riverside hosts Japanese Wagtails in abundance. Islets provide habitat for Long-billed Plovers, though many of these gravel bars appear and disappear as the engineers change the water level or steam-shovel the riverbed. In migration, I get cuckoos, Red-cheeked Starlings, Stonechats, raptors, and other surprises from time to time-- like a pair of fishing Peregrines.

When you reach the next bridge up the river, the Showabashi, over which Highway 52 passes, leave the river and take that highway to the right (east). If you have met Hy 52 at the river, be sure to turn right with it at Shimotoma intersection; if you have met Hy 52 from Hy 41 farther east at Asamizosho Shogakko Iriguchi (Asamizo Elementary School Entrance), just turn right. Go straight ahead; follow Hy 52 eastward past Harataima Station and onward. The main road will eventually curve uphill and to the right, and near the crest will be a junction called Shibakogahara rikkyo, which serves as an entrance to Sagamihara Koen on the right. This park is of little interest, so continue straight at the junction, and you will soon see a high raised embankment looming on your left, at about the same time you can actually see into the park on your right. Climbing that embankment (there's a paved ramp) will reveal Sagami Pond.

Sagami Pond in summer: no ducks now, sorry

Sagami Pond is wonderful for wintering ducks, especially if you are a photographer. The reservoir is entirely barred off, and two of its four sides are inaccessible by the public, but viewing is still close and easy: the birds are relatively unalarmed by your presence. Rarities cannot be relied upon, of course, but Mandarin Ducks and Falcated Teal are regular (though varying in numbers-- for the past couple of years there have been about 200 Mandarins), along with all the common species. Patience usually rewards me with an American Wigeon-- or at least a hybrid-- among the Eurasian Wigeons. Occasional winters see Baikal Teal, and a rare Garganey may stop by in late summer or early autumn.

There is a narrow treed margin around the outside of the reservoir, and keeping half an eye on them should turn up a flock of Azure-winged Magpies, a Hawfinch, or wintering buntings.

Poorly copied map of route from Sagami River to Sagami Pond

Charles Harper (November 2005)

Kirada no Mori is a rare treat in Central Japanold growth forest with 200-300-year-old birch trees. Because of this habitat, the birding can be good all year round. Trails are plentiful and well marked, though the markers can be a little confusing if you have no Japanese ability. Generally, numbers on the trail markers represent minutes to the next destination rather than kilometers (though a '2.5' may represent hourssomething that will become apparent if you have been walking for 10 minutes without reaching your destination!).

Resident: Great Spotted Woodpecker, White-backed Woodpecker, Japanese Green Woodpecker, Japanese Pygmy Woodpecker, Long-tailed Tit, Great Tit, Willow Tit, Coal Tit, Varied Tit, Eurasian Nuthatch, Pekin Robin (near streams), Black-faced Bunting, Japanese Grosbeak, Eurasian Jay (often around the lake).

Summer: Oriental Cuckoo, Winter Wren, Japanese Robin, Siberian Blue Robin, Gray (Japanese) Thrush, Japanese Bush Warbler, Crowned Willow Warbler, Blue-and-White Flycatcher, Narcissus Flycatcher.

Winter: Goldcrest, Pale Thrush, Rustic Bunting, Gray Bunting, Brambling, Eurasian Siskin, Bullfinch, Hawfinch (though the buntings may move to lower elevations during heavy snow).

Danto-ko in Kirada no Mori, Northern Aichi

Getting there: Take Rt. 153 from Nagoya heading towards Toyota. In Asuke-cho, take Rt. 33. In about 22 km you will see a small lake on your right (Danto-ko) with a parking lot with restrooms and a small hut towards the back. The trailhead begins at the back of the lot past the restrooms. The roads may require snow tires or chains during heavy snow. Public transportation inquiries can be made at the Nagoya International Center, (052) 581-5678.

Thanks to Shigemi Oyama for assistance with compiling the summer list.

Mike Yough (January 2006)

The birding: Though probably not worth traveling across the country to bird, Makinogaike is a nice locale for the birder in town on business with limited time and transportation. Makinogaike is a small lake surrounded by wooded areas, parks, and residential areas. One can pick up 45+ species during a walk around the lake on a good day in late January. It is especially good for wintering ducks (Smew, Falcated Teal) and small and large thrushes (Red-flanked Bluetail, Daurian Redstart, Pale and White's Thrush). Most of the common residents can be found here as well as surprises during migration.

Good birding months: November through March.

Best birding months: Late December to mid-February.

All year: Little Grebe, Gray Heron, Spot-billed Duck, Common Kingfisher, Japanese Pygmy Woodpecker, Long-tailed Tit, Varied Tit, Great Tit, Japanese White-eye, and Japanese Bush Warbler. Winter: Great Crested Grebe, Great Cormorant, Mallard, Falcated Teal, Gadwall, Eurasian Wigeon, Northern Pintail, Common Pochard, Tufted Duck, Smew, European Coot, Common Moorhen, Black-headed Gull, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Black-backed (White) Wagtail, Gray Wagtail, Japanese Wagtail, Red-flanked Bluetail, Daurian Redstart, White's Thrush, Pale Thrush, Dusky Thrush, Common Reed Bunting, and Eurasian Jay.

Getting there: From Nagoya Station take the Higashiyama Subway line to Hoshigaoka. Take the city bus (Kan Hoshigaoka) #1, getting off at Umemorisaka.

Isshiki-cho is a small village almost due south of Nagoya, right on Chita Bay, and is good during shorebird migration. Rarities regularly show up at Isshiki-cho and have included: Chinese Pond Heron, Oriental Ibis, Long-tailed Duck, Red-crested Pochard, Short-eared Owl, White-breasted Waterhen, Watercock, Eurasian Oystercatcher, Caspian Plover, Spoon-billed Sandpiper, Ruff, Oriental Pratincole, Spotted/Nordmann's Greenshank, Long-billed Dowitcher, Avocet, Short-toed Lark, Richard's Pipit, and Red-throated Pipit. Broad-billed Sandpiper is regular in spring.

A 'hot spot' along the levee road, good for shorebirds. This spot is particularly good at high tide (the sandbars on the bay disappear while the water level here remains relatively unchanged).

There is no single hotspot in Isshiki; it requires driving around to discover active patches. Generally, the best birding is to be found on the western and southern side of Rt. 247. While birding can be good from the levee, there is promising habitat to be found off that road as well. The paddy fields just east of the Yahagigawa (Yahagi River) in Nishio-shi can also be productive. Painted Snipe and Japanese Quail are resident (though far from a sure bet). The latter can be found in the fields just west of where the Yahagifuru-gawa meets Chita Bay.

In and around the pond in the right photo is always good for ducks, grebes, herons, egrets and possible snipe or Green Sandpiper.

Here is a link to the Google map for the Isshiki area.

From Toyohashi (i.e. from the direction of Tokyo): Take 23 (westbound) to 247 (westbound). Upon entering the town of Isshiki-cho, you will cross the Yahagifurugawa (Yahagifuru River) Turn left onto the levee road to begin birding from this direction.

From Nagoya (i.e. Kyoto/Osaka): Take Rt. 23 (eastbound) to 419 (southbound) to 247 (eastbound). Once in Isshiki-cho, take 476 to the port and enter the levee road at this point.

Unfortunately, there is no train service to Isshiki-cho. Nagoya, Okazaki, or Toyohashi (three of the larger cities in Aichi) presumably have bus service that can get you there, but the area is quite large and cannot be birded in a day, even with a car.

There is a webpage by a local birding group (in Japanese).

Mike Yough (September 2005)

The birds: Greater Pied Kingfisher is resident. This location is also good for Wryneck during autumn migration, and Long-billed Ringed Plover, Mandarin Duck, and various thrushes during the winter, as well as the more common birds year-round.

The birding: This is a relatively easy area to bird because of the relatively small area, the variety of habitats (river, sparse woodland, open field), walking paths, and adequately posted trail maps.

The birding begins in the parking lot. On the opposite side of the parking lot across from the restrooms is a green chain-link fence, and on the other side of this fence is a pond that is good for ducks and Greater Pied Kingfisher. Follow the paths to the river looking for thrushes and the common woodland birds on the way. The river itself is also good for the kingfisher, Long-billed Ringed Plover and Mandarin Duck.

Directions: Take the Tokai Kanjo Expressway to the Kanpachi IC (Interchange). Take a right and turn onto Route153 (left, going west). Go across the river, turning right onto Rte. 11. There will be signs for the park in less than a kilometer. Or you can take Rte. 419 from Nagoya to Rte.153. Follow 153 until signs direct you to take a right across the river. Do not take this right, but continue straight (this will be Rte.11). There will be signs for the park in less than a kilometer from this junction.

Mike Yough (November 2005)

Fujimae is known as Japan's largest stopover site for migratory shorebirds, and was designated a Ramsar Convention Wetland Site in 2002. It is composed of about 300 hectares of tidal flats at the mouths of the Shonai, Shin, and Nikko rivers. It is also a wintering locale for tens of thousands of ducks, and rarities show up annually during migration. One or two Saunders's Gulls can usually be found working the river during winter. The Nagoya City Wild Bird Observatory (9:00-4:30, closed on Mondays) is a good place to make inquiries regarding recent sightings. There is good habitat across from the observatory, though it is rather distant (the observatory is stocked with 30 scopes). Good habitat can be found by following the Shonai River, though the best spots for observation are often along narrow roads with heavy, rapidly-moving traffic.

Good birding months: August through May.

Getting there: Take the bus at the Meitetsu Bus Center near Nagoya Station. There are signs to the Bus Center inside the station. Get on the bus headed for Nagashima Onsen, and get off at Nanyou-chou Fujimae. (This may not be clearly posted in the Bus Center, so you may have to ask for assistance.)

Mike Yough (March 2006)

For the visiting birder with limited time and transportation resources, Tsurumai-koen is a good spot to see some of the more common Japanese birds. As a cluster of trees in a concrete jungle, rarities sometimes show up on migration (e.g. Japanese Night Heron). Japanese Green Pigeon is a common migrant and occasionally winters.

Resident: Spot-billed Duck, Japanese Pygmy Woodpecker, Japanese Wagtail, Japanese Bush Warbler, Great Tit, Japanese White-eye.

Winter: Gray Wagtail, Red-flanked Bluetail, Dusky Thrush

Getting there: Take the Tsurumai subway line to Tsurumai Station. Go out Exit 4. The park is just outside the exit on the left.

Mike Yough (March 2006)

The tiny port and fishing village

Tobishima, 'Jumping Island', off the Japan Sea coast of northern Honshu, is one of a loose line of offshore islands from Kyushu to Hokkaido which are of particular interest to Japanese birders. They are vagrant traps: in the spring and fall, when mainland migrants stray from the coasts of Korea, China or Russia, these islands are their first landfall. They vary in size from Sado (860 sq. km.) to Hegurajima (1 sq. km.),and are all reachable by ferry in from one to three hours, incidentally offering an opportunity for some pelagic birding, though this is not as exciting as off the open Pacific coast.

Sakata, the departure port for Tobishima, is an hour's flight (Shonai Airport) and 15,000 yen from Tokyo; it is a small city, and the ferry dock is just half an hour from the airport. The ferry trip lasts 90 minutes and costs 2000 yen, 900 yen more if you want to sit on the second deck, which you do: you cannot get to the bow, but with a fellow birder and no other wealthy passengers (the local birders huddle below amidships with the smokers, and peer over the gunwales), you can work both sides of the boat very nicely. In early May you may still get many of the loons, shearwaters and alcids of this part of the world, and the endemic target, Japanese Murrelet is usually seen.

Tobishima, a little over 8 sq. km. in area, consists of a small fishing village of perhaps 100 residents, with a diesel power plant and a couple of small inns (but no shop of any kind) lining the harbour; the central island ridge above the village, along which a 3-km. paved road extends, bordered by truck gardens; and the relatively-undisturbed rest of the island, with foot trails among mature black pine and deciduous forest featuring some outstandingly beautiful pines, maples and oaks. Two rock islets are breeding grounds for Black-tailed Gulls.

A rock islet

Nagoshi Inn (phone 0234-95-2004, in Japanese only), a few steps from the ferry landing, is very modest by Japanese standards, but it is clean and pleasant, has a nice hot bath and, thank God, western-style toilets. It costs 8000 yen a night with breakfast and dinner, both delicious for those who love seafood. They will make little rice-ball lunches to carry with you in the morning.

The task of the birder is simply to spend the day-- in late April to early May from about 4:30 in the morning to 5:30 in the evening-- wandering casually back and forth along the trunk road and trails looking for the one or two individuals of any of the 200 species that have been recorded on this little island and that may be there at the moment.

A map erected near the village, which is located along the coast of the lower cove.

There is a tiny dam, collecting rainwater in a tiny ravine, just above Nagoshi Inn, and this is a good starting point at dawn, where a Japanese Night Heron may have spent the night, or a Mugimaki Flycatcher has come down to bathe. Then, following the steps on up to the ridge, you meet the sun and one or two fishermen's wives, who have come up to tend their gardens. There seem to be no young people on the island-- they have all gone off to seek fame and fortune in Tokyo-- only gnarled old men, who have already set off in their boats in the dark before dawn, and their bent, bonneted wives, who either nod a slight greeting or ignore you. In May the new shoots are up and the gardens netted over and festooned with scarecrows. One patch sports a dead, gibbeted Whiskered Auklet, hung as a warning to other Whiskered Auklets who might be tempted to raid the young potato plants. This area you scour carefully for bunting and pipits: some 30 species have been found here.

Passing out of this cultivated area, the mixed woodland can be searched for cuckoos (4 sp.), thrushes (17 sp.), warblers, (12 sp.) and flycatchers (10 sp.). Endemics and near-endemics like Japanese Woodpigeon, Japanese Waxwing, Japanese Accentor, Latham's Snipe, Japanese Yellow Bunting, Red-cheeked Starling, Japanese Robin, Grey Bunting all appear here commonly in migration, but Japanese birders are looking for Hoopoe, Wryneck, Blythe�s Pipit, Swinhoe's Robin, Siberian Rubythroat, Black-throated Thrush, Radde's Warbler.

Returning to the village in the late afternoon, you can look for a short-toed lark or a Japanese Wagtail in the waste lots dockside, study Temminck�s Cormorants along the breakwater, watch the locals spreading seaweed or filleted squid out to dry on bamboo mats, or spend 30 seconds exploring a Yayoi period burial crevice, the island�s lone cultural attraction. If you're just plain tired, go soak in the bath, order two bottles of Kirin with dinner, and go to bed early. There's nothing to do after dark except listen to the Brown Hawk Owls quietly hoo-hooing from the trees.

Charles Harper (May 2004)