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Sarracenia
Sarraceniaare impressive looking plants. People have often compared them to looking like trumpets. Bugs beware though, these are one of the most efficient insect traps known amongst the carnivorous plant world.
The pitchers on Sarraceniaarise from an underground rhizome and can either be erect or decumbent (lying along the ground). Whether lying on the ground or not, the pitchers are made up of a hood, which may or may not prevent rain water from entering, and the mouth which leads to the 'stomach' of the plant. Insects are attracted by the colour and nectar of the plant. Around the edge of the pitcher mouth are glands which can produce so much nectar, it looks as though the plant has been recently sprayed with water. Insects feed on this and are attracted further into the opening, where more nectar abounds. Then, suddenly, the insect loses its footing on the slippery inside. They may try to fly out, and sometimes succeed, but more often end up hitting the inside walls and falling further down the pitcher.
As they work their way down the pitcher, the insect enters what can only be compared to a torture chamber. The pitcher decreases in width toward the base, so the walls close in on the hapless insect. Not only that, but sharp, downward pointing hairs force the insect to enter further into the pitcher in hopes of escape. Backing up results in a sharp jab. Eventually, the insect enters the digestive zone, a pit of fluids filled with hungry bacteria and digestive enzymes. The insect is digested alive, and nutrients absorbed by the pitcher plant for its own growth. Pretty gruesome, hey?
Before you start crying for the insect, don't worry, it has been found that some of the pitcher plants produce a drug called coniine. This, in effect, anesthetizes the insect, giving them a 'high' if you will, and they fall into the pitcher, blissfully asleep, never to awaken. Warning: Not all Sarraceniaproduce this drug, and in the summer, pitchers may be literally brimming with dead and dying insects. The sounds of beating wings can be quite pitiful, so if you're weak of stomach, these plants aren't for you!
Sarraceniaare native to the eastern coast regions of North America, with the vast majority occuring in the lower half of the United States. They do naturally occur in other part of Canada (specifically, S. purpurea) and have been successfully introduced intro bogs across North America.
Similar to the venus flytrap, the habitats of Sarraceniaare boggy, peaty, and are often burned, allowing for the plants to compete with grasses. They are also subject to habitat loss through development of bogs into more economically valuable land. As well, farmers often pasture their cattle in boggy areas. While the cattle does not eat the plant, they do destroy the bog land through erosion and addition of fertilizer, as well as stomping on the plants.
Species
There are currently eight recognized species, several subspecies, and hundreds of cultivars and hybrids due to the fact that these plants are easy to cross and produce fertile hybrids. The species are S. purpurea, S. flava, S. rubra, S. oreophila, S. minor, S. alata, S. leucophylla, and S. psitticina.
Soil and Containers
Being soggy boggy inhabitants, the Sarracenialike a soil that holds a lot of water. They are tolerant of a variety of mixes. For adults, I use live sphagnum moss. For younger varieties, I'll often use a mix of 1:1:1 peat moss, horticultural sand, and perlite.
Pots can be 4 inch ones for smaller plants, up to 12 inches or bigger for mature plants. These should be of plastic, and should be kept in deep water, almost up to the soil level. This water can be allowed to drop over the course of a few weeks, and then filled up again to allow the soil to breathe. During winter dormancy, the soil should be kept just moist, not soggy.
Climate
Similar to the venus flytrap, these plants require a winter dormancy period to build up resources for the following year. Dormancy is triggered by reduction in water and light, as well as cooler temperatures. You will often see the plants produce long leaves called phyllodia.
During growth, Sarraceniaprefer full sun and temperatures up to 35 degrees celsius (although cooler is better). During dormancy, they can survive temperatures down to -5 degrees celsius or more. In the case of S. purpureait can survive temperatures down to -30 degrees celsius and lower.
Propagation
Propagation of Sarraceniacan be done through seed, rhizome cuttings, division, and tissue culture.
Seed Sarraceniaproduce unique flowers during the spring time. If left alone, they will often be fertilized by a passing bee (our friend!). However, you can intervene and cross pollinate by removing some pollen and placing it on the stigma of another flower. Self-fertilization usually does not result in much seed. If you are unsure of what the part of the flower are, consult a book on carnivorous plants. These are one of the easiest ones to cross pollinate.
If pollination was successful, the flower will drop it's petals, and the seed pod will swell over the summer, turning brown in the autumn. When opened, it will reveal chambers filled with light brown seed. This seed should be sown on standard mix (not buried) and given a cool, wet period (known as stratification) for successful germination. This period should be at least one month. The seed will then germinate within weeks to months, taking up to five years to get a mature plant.
Division Large clumps of plants can simply be separated in the spring time and repotted, making sure each plant has some roots and rhizome.
Rhizome cuttings The rhizome of Sarraceniaruns just below the surface of the soil. In the spring, the plant can be dug up, and chunks of the rhizome cut off with a sharp knife. The inside of the rhizome should be white, like a potato, not brown. This should be dusted with fungicide, and planted just below the surface (remember which way is up!) of standard mix. You should see new growth within a month, a full size plant taking up to two years.
Tissue culture Seed can be sterilized and sown in tissue culture. This is a specialized process, but is an excellent method of producing large quantities of plants in a short period of time.
Seasonal Care
Every spring, flowers should be removed, or cross pollinated. Resulting seed should be labelled and stored dry in the refrigerator at 4 degrees celsius.
Every two to three years, repot your plant, and divide it up if necessary (or if desired).
Remove dead tissue to ensure that the plant is not affected by fungus.
Pests and Diseases
I have found that most pests affect the young, new growth of the plants. Older pitchers seem to be displeasing to the palate. They can be afflicted with aphids, thrips, mealybugs, scale, fungus, and the larger pests such as birds, racoons, and so forth. See the venus flytrap section for information on chemical treatments.
One interesting dilemma I have run into is that of wasps chewing their way out. This generally occurs in older pitchers which aren't producing as much digestive enzymes and are quite full of dead insects. The wasp, while trapped in the pitcher, literally chews its way out of the pitcher. I figure if the wasp is that determined, it deserves its freedom!